Photos of the Venezuelan outer islands

We moved into the Harbor Village Marina to clean Paradise inside out, she really needs a bath bad so do we. The days are hot and humid and the nights filled with hungry mosquitoes, we really hate to donate blood. Between all the work we'll try to have some fun as well. It'll be a week or so before I'll post anything else, so for now here are a few photos and a photo story of the outer islands of Venezuela





For photo story click on arrow bottom left:

Bonaire

We left Aves de Sotavento at 10 in the morning, the wind was blowing about 12 to 15 knots and the swells were quite a bit down but had these confusing square waves pop up here and there, just very unsettled. We motor sailed with jib out at first but the side ways roll from the choppy swells was so uncomfortable we pulled the main up to stabilize the motion and it helped. Sid had one fishing pool set up and was just letting the other one out when we had a bite already, the hook wasn't even in the water for one minute. It was a small black fin tuna but really to small so we let him go. Half way to Bonaire a beautiful Tropic Bird tried unsuccessfully to land on Paradise and a few minutes later I saw a man of war jelly fish float next to the boat. They have this moon shaped body which looks like a blown up balloon which floats sticking out of the water. It's really pretty looking with the purple body surrounded with a bright pink rim. Sid said that's the way they move around sailing on top of the water, really cool. 10 miles off Bonaire some big bottle nose dolphins joined us for a while playing at the bow of Paradise. Two huge cruise ships passed us when we approached the southern tip of Bonaire. Here is where the fun began, the swells subsided as we headed into the lee of the island, the wind was a steady 10-12 knots and filled the spinnaker up nicely, and we sailed around the southern coast and half way up to Kralendjik and finished the last leg in 15 knots with jib and main. The trip was 42 miles and we arrived just before sunset. As we approached the moorings a dinghy headed our way and I recognized the grin immediately. Blake on Slow Mocean had been following our Blog and new that we were coming. He then helped us to get on the mooring, what a nice guy, thanks Blake. After we had settled in we called Randy and Lourae AKA Pizazz. We had met them some 8 years ago in the San Blas Islands and were headed for the South Pacific. We talked them into going up to the Seas of Cortez before heading west, which they did. They then came back to Bonaire built a house and sold Pizazz.. After the call we lowered the dinghy and went ashore to check in. First we had to go to Customs where a very friendly guy greeted us. He was very polite and wished as a wonderful stay while pointing out where our next stop was the police station. Since Immigration was closed the police station will check us in for them. We came prepared with some LAPD stick pins and patches and the two guys working there were very happy to receive them. We talked to one of them for at least an hour and he promised to come and visit us. Then we headed to the dock bar we had our dinghy tide to and enjoyed an ice cold beer and some munchies. At nine the next morning Lourae picked me up and took me shopping, yeah groceries here I come. I was really curious to find out what European goodies I could find here and was not disappointed especially when I found my favorite seasoning Aromat I ran out a long time ago and can only buy in Switzerland and found many other things it was like having Xmas. I think Lourae had more fun watching me finding all the goodies than me finding them. That same evening we had dinner at their house "Villa Blue". Wow, what a house! They designed it themselves with a computer program and really did a heck of a job. It just takes your breath away when you walk through the tall entrance door into the spacey living room with an 18 foot tall wooden ceiling, being able to see every single room as those doors are wide and open and then the wide open sliding door to the patio with infinity pool and a magnificent view over the island. After a tour of the new house we enjoyed a wonderful stuffed salmon dinner and talked up a storm until almost two in the morning. It was really great to finally catch up with the two. The following two days Sid cleaned boat and I did laundry. Ouch and double ouch!!! The first day I had 6 loads of laundry and used 3 driers and the bill came to 50 US dollars, yikes and I had still three more loads to do. Now I think I understand why so many boaters run around naked on their boats! I did some more shopping during laundry and found that the shopping here is a hit or a miss. As everything has to be shipped to the island it's for once a bit more expensive and if you see something you might need better buy it or you will never see it again. I'm still l looking for Ziploc bags as I'm all out, but it is wonderful to have nice and soft toilette paper again LOL. Meat and produce is great, but also when you see it buy it, the dry goods is a bit of a disappointment as many shelves are empty. But I'm sure we'll be here long enough that I be able to find this or that eventually. Been cleaning the boat ever since we arrived but do find time to play as well. Our social life got busy the minute we occupied the mooring almost a culture shock after three months in lonely anchorages but a lot of fun to catch up with everybody. We'll be having a good time here that's for sure.

We truly found Paradise

Bird population here is about 12 if not counting the 20 flamingos. So far we've seen 1 heron, 1 king fisher, 2 turns, 2 osprey, 3 pelicans and 3 frigate birds all attacking one single Booby. There are a few turtles hanging around the boat and now and then popping their heads out of the water. After seeing the flamingos I was determent to find out where they are as they flew to the eastern end of the mangrove island. The following day we hopped into the dinghy and explored the island. Almost towards the end of the island we found a small sandy beach and went ashore. About a 3 minute walk brought us to the edge of a big stinky lagoon, just the kind flamingos like. Unfortunately we did not encounter any and there was no way to walk around as it was slippery and overgrown with mangroves. We headed back to the dinghy and ventured out to the end of the island where the reef starts and went for a hike along the reef. We found beautiful pools and an area where the reef gave way to the sea like flat tables with cut outs. All Tables were overgrown with a mossy looking sea plant. The gaps between the tables filled and emptied again and occasionally the waves flooded over the top. It was breath taking. Not just that but we found lots of snails again and finally figured out where the big ones hide, now that is our secret. We came home with a huge back full. The biggest snails I prepped like Abalone, pounded, breaded and pan fried. Ahhhhh they were good.
Our provisions are getting really low now. We have 1 carrot, 1 onion, 2 cloves garlic, very low on coffee and power milk, few canned goods, no more pasta, little rice, no wine, beer and are on our last roll of toilette paper. The stores in Bonaire are going to love us! Oh we're almost out of rum, we had one bottle with about 2 inches of rum left when I found the bottle on its side and the lid not screwed on tide and some rum spilled. Luckily there was a plastic bag that caught the spill. Both of us reacted immediately by closing in on the spill on hands and knees, assessing the situation then grabbing the bag on four sides, gingerly lifting it up and even more so carefully moving it over a ready wide mouth glass and finally saving the rum in the glass, it was about 1 ½ shots of rum. Then we realized what we just had done, we laughed our butts off, it was too comical, well you had to be there.
We're still waiting for the squally weather to pass so what all can you do. Sid climbed the mast twice and fixed the wind instrument. The wind from that squall was so strong, Sid figured over 50 to be able to seize the instrument. Then for two days he cleaned stainless, while I combat mildew. Of course we had fun too. I became a huge fan of mangrove fishing and being surrounded by it again you couldn't keep the two of us away from it. We followed the mangroves along our anchorage and at the southwest corner little bay opened to the south, we followed it and half way in we positioned the dinghy close enough to the mangroves and started throwing the lure and bingo a huge, huge snapper bit my lure. Wow, what a fight. We couldn't believe our eyes when we landed the fish in the dinghy, it must have been 10 to 12 pound and barely fit in the bucket except the tail was sticking out. At the end of this little bite of a bay the mangrove gave way to a narrow canal and opened up to a lagoon all surrounded by mangroves. As we headed through that cut another mangrove snapper hit my lure. Inside the mangrove we tried to catch fish at any odd places but nothing. Through the very dark colored water we did see some rays we scared of with the motor and many barracudas. Sid saw one that was about 5 feet long. At the very end of the lagoon are some taller mangroves and you can drive right under them, we thought for sure we'll catch some more snappers here and what a surprise to get hit right away. Then we realized they were tarpons. We had about 20 around the dinghy and no matter where you tossed the lure they got it. Amazing how high they jump out of the water. By the way, we did have to put bug spray on as the no-see-ums were very thick and Sid brought up the fact of the low bird population might be cause due to them. Back at the boat Sid cleaned the fish, there was enough meat for 4 dinners for us with just half of the fish. The second fish we caught we brought over to our neighbors we haven't met yet, but saw them in the same anchorage in Barlovento. We chat for a bit about this and that and provisions what we had left, especially the one roll of TP. About an hour later a knock on the boat and a roll of TP came flying into the cockpit, I would say that was a good trade LOL.
Sid fixed up some poles for the tarpons and the following day we headed back into the mangrove. Unfortunately the tarpons were not as playful as the previous day but Sid managed to hook one. Amazing how high they jump out of the water to shake loose the lure. By the way they are pretty difficult to hook as their mouth is hard but have no teeth and their gills are dangerously sharp so you have to grab them by the lips to take the lure out before releasing them back into the water. I definitely got hooked on mangrove fishing, it's very exciting and I did catch another one nice size mangrove snapper not quite as big as the last one but bigger then the ones before. Sid is getting tired of cleaning fish, but he said he likes to be the bait and cleaning guy LOL.
It's been a very enjoyable stay here, especially the fishing. But sitting on deck a couple of hours before sunset to the many turtles popping up their heads all around us and the very few birds feeding and along the mangroves fish feeding while wispy clouds pass over us makes us realize we did find another Paradise. This has been truly a wonderful and enjoyable trip we'll always treasure. Weather has finally cleared and it's time to go on to find new adventure. This is a final goodbye to Venezuela.

After being awaken by the morning star
The anchor is pulled and out at sea again we are
With a fresh cup of coffee in our hand
We are leaving another beautiful land
As the island is slowly fading
Some yet new ones are waiting
For our anchor gently settle in the sand
And our bare feet touching another new land
While our minds are wondering how it will be
Mother Nature is cradling Paradise across the sea
What a beautiful life we have and what bliss
Something we definitely don't want to miss

Manuela Olshefski 03/17/2010

IF IT HAPPENS IT HAPPENS OUT THERE

"IF IT HAPPENS IT'S GONNA HAPPEN OUT THERE!" our favorite speech of Captain Ron. By the way if you haven't seen Captain Ron yet I suggest you get a copy and watch it, its funnier then heck, no it's hilarious and you'll enjoy it even more so if you are a boater. We lost count how many times we've watched it so far, but it's over ten times. According to our experience it's also "IF IT HAPPENS IT'S GONNA HAPPEN AT NIGHT!" We were anchored just off the island of Curricai along with 3 other sailboats, enduring a 2 to 4 foot swell rolling through the anchorage, sometimes worse then others. Wind hasn't been too bad right around 15 knots and the sky turned cloudy and stayed cloudy three days, maybe a chance for rain we've been hoping for. Several occasions it tried to sprinkle as squall after squall passed but it never turned into any rain. If it happens it's gonna happen at night and sure enough the third night around 2.30 am all hell broke loose. Heavy rain was pounding on the deck and the wind was howling up a storm, it sounded almost like a freight train. We brought everything in that could get wet and Sid turned the radar on to assess how big the squall was. It was enormous a whole 16 miles across and our guess is with winds over 40 knots. Turned the wind indicator on but all that showed up on the screen was a quick flash then nothing then just zeros while the wind was still howling. It blew so hard it must have burned it our or blown away, no telling until the following morning. Turned out the anemometer froze. The weather was coming out of the south instead of the NE, so we staid up for a while keeping an eye on the situation. I eventually went back to sleep while Sid staid up keeping an eye on things.
Late afternoon before the squall one yachty knocking on the boat brought a message from the Guardia for each boat to call them on VHF 16 to tell them who we were and that their motor was broken down so they could not come out. We all did as they asked and the Guardia offered then to call them on channel 16 in emergency. Good one!!! How are they coming to help us with a broken outboard.
One squall after another was passing by but none as furious as the one in the middle of the night. In the morning we waited for two squalls to pass, pulled anchor and headed to Isla Larga the biggest island of Sotavento and anchored two bays passed the Guardia in a perfect little protected and calm spot in the cut between Isla Larga and a small mangrove island. Isla Larga is about 2 miles long and nothing but mangroves, yeah, more fishing. Best yet, Sid excitedly called me outside and pointed at a flock of about 20 flamingos flying by, wow how kewl is that!

Aves de Sotavento

The mangroves fishing was so much fun we had to go back and to do some more casting practice to get the lures as close under the mangroves without snagging on the roots or leaves. When done so bingo another nice snapper was landed. We caught 4 more mangrove snappers. The hour we thought we were fishing turned into 3 hours and just before sunset we returned to Paradise, but not before heading to our neighbor boat we haven't met yet. Thought it would be nice to meet them this way and bring them a fresh fish. We also explored the nearby white sandy beach and watched many turtles pop up their heads to get fresh air just about 20 to 30 feet from where we were standing. The following morning we put our snorkel and fins on and joined the turtles. Unfortunately it was too murky, never got to see one turtle and the current took us swiftly out to sea so for safety reasons we swam back ashore and headed back to the boat. Mid afternoon we met our neighbor on the beach and burned some trash and enjoyed an ice cold beer he brought along, what a treat we haven't had in a while. The poor stranded fishermen joined us for a short chat when I found out that all they had left was corn flour for Arepas they were living on. Back on the boat I went through my inventory and made a bag full of rations which should get them by for a few days, and it made our day to see their happy faces. Weather had calmed down significantly and it was time to leave this unspoiled Paradise. After the fishermen had picked up their cell phone and Sid had presented them with a Easter present, a bottle of Rum, their faces really lit up. The rum will definitively keep their spirit up, or at least for one evening. The motor sail across to Aves Sotavento was uneventful, 12 knots of wind about 4 foot swells and no tuna or dorado was interested in the lures we had out, except for one booby who kept trying for about 10 minute to land a plastic fish.
Aves de Sotavento lie about ten miles WNW of Barlovento with a few pretty islands with white powdery sand beaches and all protected by the reef. We first anchored between Isla Palmeras and smaller unnamed island and had a very spectacular view through the window of the islands to a deep pool of water which gave way to the inner waters of the reef. The snorkeling on the south side of the smaller island was full with the most colorful tropical fish including huge black parrot fish with cobalt blue heads. Normally parrot fish are very skittish and shy away but not here, some came so close I could have reached my hand out and touched them. One of my favorites are the box fish, not just do they have the cutest faces, the coloring is incredible and they are so curious they come right up to you and follow you wherever you go. A bit later while Sid relaxed and I prepped dinner a northerly swell started rolling in so we put the flopper stoppers out. Over the next few hours the roll got worse and early the next morning we pulled anchor and headed one island up, Curricai, where we set the hook in 10 feet of water of the whitest beach. The beach looks very inviting. We'll be staying a few days here before finally heading to Bonaire.