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The cruising adventures of Sid and Manuela

Saturday, December 17, 2016

MERRY SAN BLAS CHRISTMAS

It wasn’t but could have been a little Bonvoyage Party at our last evening at Shelter Bay before leaving for the San Blas. Pretty much everybody including people never attending the Sunday evening BBQ showed up. It was a fun evening and as always the food was fabulous. This has been an incredible fun group. Don’t get me wrong we always have fun no matter where we go but this group was had the most comradery we’ve ever were privilege to enjoy. We truly will miss this group. And as always when meeting new friends they all sail into different directions, but we never say goodbye we always say “C ya later”.


















We left early morning for Portobelo and motored away as there was not a breath of air for the entire 20 miles. Not a bad thing at all as we could test our newly repaired  engine which turned out OK “good job done Sid”. I would not doubt  that anyway, best mechanic to have on any boat. Just as we had settle in the wind started to come up and of course not out of the direction we like it to come from but out of the feared west which is right into the bay. It was a bit lumpy but not intolerable. We decided before the chop got worse to drop all our stuff off at our storage unit so down came the dinghy and down came the outboard including Sid starting the outboard and ooh, ooooh…… No water was spewing out, not a good thing. I can’t tell you how many time we hoisted the outboard up and down and Sid worked diligently on it each time taking it all apart but no joy. Down came our 2 hps little outboard and it started right away. We were barely 50 feet away from the boat it gave up the ghost. Luckily the wind blew us back to the boat with some help of maneuvering the dinghy with our hands. Sid got it started again but same thing it would and would not keep running, probably dirty fuel. We were desperate to get our stuff to the storage as we don’t trust Portobelo in westerlies, so we called Anita and told her of our dilemma asking if Dario next door could pick us up head across to our shed, drop off and pick up stuff, then head back to her house to finally get together with her (we had planned to see her anyway as we haven’t seen her in months as she went home to Arizona). About an hour later we sat on her patio sipping on a cocktail catching up. Unfortunately it was already getting dark so she let us have her dinghy overnight, as I was leaving early for a trip into Panama City with Melania to Provision. Sid dropped me off early and headed back to the boat to work on both outboards. Later on that day he called me with good and bad news, good one was little outboard was working, big one did not.


I had a great time shopping in town with Melania and went to all the places she usually doesn’t get to go shopping. We came home rather late and it was dark already at 7pm. It was too late to head over to Anita’s and she understood that with the weather condition we were not going to stay another day. The weather forecast didn’t look good either, some 30 knots wind out of the S was predicted, that would make this anchorage downright dangerous, so we left at sun up after another rolly night. 

We had a nice sail to Linton and arrived just before heavy rain hit. As soon as we realized our outboard needed to be brought in to the Mechanic at Panamarina, plus bad weather forecast, I  had called Linton Bay marina to reserve a slip. “They are all full”, Adam said and gave us the worst slip in the marina that if we get wind waves will be on our beam. He claimed he had no other slips, but later on that week we found out there was some others. Anyway, we settled in then took a dinghy ride to Panama Marina to bring our ailing dinghy to the dinghy doctor. Pelota the mechanic told us he would have a look at the motor the following day which was Friday. So we headed home still hoping we would make it to the San Blas before Thanksgiving and the bad weather.
Of course lunch was on the plan as well, but unfortunately by the time we got there with the little outboard the restaurant was closed for lunch, but they were nice enough to make us two orders of fries.
As we ordered another beer, we watched this nasty black cloud approaching and stupidly thought we could out run it, sure we will make it home before it hits, not considering our just 2 hp putt putt engine. We were barely away from the dock the dark cloud now really ugly looking was approaching faster than we wanted. AND of course the putt putt machine sputtered stopped, sputtered and stopped and again sputtered and stopped while now heavier wind threatened to blow us towards the mangroves. Not having oars in the dinghy, yep a stupid thing, we paddled with our hands to the guard shack in the middle of the mooring field, climbed on it not a second too soon before pelting rain came sideways, we had to stand on the one foot wide ledge on the leeward side of the shed to keep dry. 


The wind was howling, I kept looking towards the mangroves we would have been stuck in, just imagining all the spiders and bugs, yuck. Some twenty minutes later we hopped back into our dinghy an amazingly it didn’t sputter anymore, guess that little thing did not like the weather either.

Our ex-neighbors at Shelter Bay Anita and Ramon were in the marina as well. They had left Shelter Bay 2 weeks prior and needed to head to Sabzurro the very southern part of the San Blas to pick up a dinghy engine they had loaned to a friend, refusing to bring it back, nice friend. They were going to sail from there directly to Miami but on their way they came into the ITCZ which was so static they were hit by lightning forcing them to return to a marina. We had a fun dinner with them and when the engine was ready on Saturday they came with us to Panamarina as they had never been there. Anita just loved the drive through the mangrove and lunch as always was wonderful.




Even though we now had the engine back the weather window was closed for us to head to the San Blas as a very slow moving system about 100 miles north of us just sat there gaining more and more strength bringing us 30 knots of wind out of the south. NOAA at this point had it as Invest L90 and predicted it to head west and eventually closer to Nicaragua turning into a Tropical Storm or Hurricane. What I thought was amazing they kept saying it was 300 miles off the Nicaraguan shore, HELLOOOOO it is only 100 miles North of Panama, what are we chopped liver?!!!!! The wind kept accelerating and before we knew it was now a tropical storm named Otto but was taking a loop south easterly, not the north westerly like NOAA had predicted, it was heading towards us, yikes. Then Otto became a full blown Category 1 Hurricane. By that time it was too late to take my new sun awing down, but I have to say in the 50 knots of winds we encountered it did pretty darn well.  Invest L90 did not take the predicted 48 hours to be a Tropical Storm but went within 24 hours from L90 to Tropical storm to Hurricane Otto. It’s kinda late in the season for that and this system is way too far South or is it. Nope occasionally in November a hurricane can build in the southwestern Caribbean as Otto did. 4 days after we had arrived in Linton we had the eye of Hurricane Otto 45 miles from us, yikes. All the predicted weather we had went through the roof. The wind was gusting and rain pelting sideways, it blew so hard the rain showers blew by fast. While walking the dock it stung our faces. As I earlier said we had the worst slip in the marina and with the now 50 knots of winds we were rolling and getting slammed into the dock (a couple weeks later Sid noticed that our portside bow chock broke). 
The start of it

Otto brought beautiful rainbows



And filled up the dinghy. Laundry water

Good thing was the wind came out of the South so we did not get waves and wind waves out of the N which would have been devastating for this marina and us of course. Another good thing was our neighbor a 50 foot M Catamaran kept the full force of the wind from us, we had 45 knots. Also good thing put our flopper stopper out and added in all 6 lines to position our boat between the catamaran and off the dock. We already had 2 nights of 30 knots of wind now Otto brought his wrath for two more nights, don’t think anybody slept in the marina. And the anchorage was a mess, boats dragging into each other others drifting ashore or onto a reef, fortunately no boat was lost here. Occasionally we heard VHF skips from Portobelo, mainly Captain Jack. All hell broke loose there, every boat anchored or on mooring broke loose. Captain Jack had re-anchored his boat already for the 5th time when he broke loose again. Heard him apologetically tell one other cruiser in distress how sorry he was not able to help him this time, he just broke loose again. We were fearing the worst for them and were so thankful, even in the shittiest slip, to be safe in the marina. The last dock of A dock with a big 70 footer “Albatross” the finger dock including boat threatened to break loose, so did the last boast on B dock. The marina crew were busy all day, it was a change for us to finally see marina people work. They did a great job but came night time we were on our own. Poor Roman and Patsy had both their anchors in Panama City for re-galvanization when their mooring broke. Another boat gave them his spar anchor but needless to say they limped into the marina the following morning on day two, we helped them getting to the fuel dock. They were very tired but happy and knew how lucky they were.

The after math was not so bad here, except all the drift wood and floating broken boat parts collecting in the marina. The crew cleaned it up in no time. But the devastating photos that bombarded my Whatsapp from Portobel was heartbreaking. All but 3 boats were on land, on the rocks, thrown into the fort wall or sunk. Thomas lucked out he was pushed across the sand bar into the river where he found a new home. His catamaran that he used as fiberglass workshop, followed him and is anchored next to him. Shall be interesting to see if he ever makes it out of the river. Most boats were lost a few made it back into the water and some are still hoping they will. Portobelo is known for a lot of derelict boats and it sounds brutal but Mother Nature cleaned up the area.


Wide spread floodings











Same day turned into Hurrcane Otto

We waited a few more days and dried out what needed to be dried. I used the water that had accumulated in the dinghy to do laundry. As after every rain the water at the marina goes out, doesn’t sound right does it. Of course Otto brought devastation country wide, with mainly heavy flooding and trees down. Just between the marina and the little town 5 trees were down. Power outage was felt all the way to Sabanits and Colon. In Panama City even 3 houses went down the hill. We had no water, power or phone service for the remaining 5 days and we heard after we had left it was not for another 4 or 5 days before power came back. I didn’t have cell phone service until we arrived in the East Lemons in the Sand Blas. We headed straight to the Hollandes Keys with a Turkey in tow which we had 2 Thursdays after thanksgiving cooked by Deb on Runner.


Yes I like the necks, wings and rear end

During Otto and no phone service we had no idea how San Blas faired other than the news stating the San Blas had been evacuated. We were worried sick for all our friends there and felt lucky we were in the marina, not knowing they were all fine, had 30 knots of wind, cellphone service and all. But they of course were worried about us as they knew we had gotten the worst of Otto. We were in the worst place.
So here we are again in the beautiful San Blas anchored next to Runner enjoying wonderful dinners together. The boys working on the island during the day and the girls going snorkeling to get food or new fish for Debi’s fish tanks.
















The weather was nice and calm, with occasional rain, mainly during the night. Sirena we had met in Shelter Bay arrived as well and we had some fun evening on their boat.
My digicel data service did and did not work, couldn’t load money on it no matter what we tried. Even Reg had the sim card for a few days but noting. Sharda on Morgan invited me to come on their boat as they have good signal. Nothing there either so we finally figured out that both old and new sim card must be expired and sure enough. Sharda had an extra sim so I have data now. Thank you Shards.
Amazing if you don’t use your phone there is an expiration on the money you have on it as well, Sid just lost all his money on it. Mine has expired because I had no money on it for more than 6 months.
Here is a little video of Debi and my snorkeling trip, each day we find something special:

After 2 weeks in the pool it was time to head to a better internet connection as we are expecting guests on the 18th of December. Paradise is sparkly and shiny and decorated the most for Xmas. In a few days into the new anchorage the Swiss Christmas Cookie bakery was in full swing. What a challenge that was. Manuela accidentally left the eggs which were stored in a bowl on the table and well, the eggs got a sun burn. Every egg she opened was stuck to the shell and many, many were rotten. A friendly neighbor boat gave her 6 fresh eggs. You heard me say Swiss Christmas Cookies as in made in cold Switzerland. This is hot and tropical Panama…… Well in order to make Swiss Christmas cookies in a tropical and humid place should be done in a well air-conditioned kitchen. The cookies came out oh well a little different looking than they should but still taste the way they should. But I think this was my first and last time making cookies in this humidity.







 On the 16th Manuela took the water taxi to Carti and from there a taxi to Panama City to do some Xmas shopping and to visit two of her friends Ida and Melani. Also to pick up the hammocks we forgot in our storage. Then on the 18th Rita, hubby Miguel and son Ivano from Malaga Spain will arrive for a fun 3 week vacation in and on Paradise which will be in our next Blog

With that we wish you all a very Merry Christmas and all the Best for the coming Year. 2017 here we come!
How to take an engine off a boat


Job well done

Floating bar in Linton Bay Marina (Beer only)

Gas station and showers

Future Club House

Local school kids with cloths of their heritage, congo, kuna bollera

Passsion Fruit Tamarind Tea ala Manuela



Use a strainer to juice the Passion fruit. Add the seeds into a Pot and cover with water

Add fresh Tamarind pulp to it and bring to boil. cook for 40 minutes then steep. At this time you can also add 2 teabags of your favorite the. Let cook then strain it, it will be a thick liquid. Use a desired amount in a coup add sugar or honey or sugar cane and water. And if you really really like some whisky, rum or whatever you desire. Enjoy