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The cruising adventures of Sid and Manuela

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Time just goes by way too fast when you’re having fun. Sorry folks for letting you wait so long for our new entry:

After two weeks we finally managed to get some rain out of the tropical waves. The waves at this time come by every 3 to 5 days and one even managed to build itself into a Low and then turned into the first Tropical Storm “Alex” and eventually our first hurricane. What surprises us is that the waves already have changed direction northward and pass just a bit north of us, which is good for us but not so much for the Gulf of Mexico and the East Coast.

In the mean time many more tropical waves brought us some rain and we are able to fill up our tank with fresh rain water.

One afternoon we noticed this upwelling in the bay we guessed due to current or tidal change, but it was a phenomenon we’ve never seen here. It looked really weird as the upwelling inched its way slowly towards the boats, lasting about one hour. Then we noticed these reddish patches floating by, really weird. Then the water around us went red as more of those patches floated by. We realized that these were patches of Krill. Although krill are miniature shrimp, these looked more like crabs, therefore of course everybody had a different opinion. The latest news was that they were land crabs. In any case they were a nuisance and made swimming around the boat impossible as they crawled all over you and pinched the skin with their tiny but very sharp pinchers. We also were reluctant to run the water maker or fridge in fear the krill could clog the strainers. It lasted about one week before the critters were completely gone but not before washing onshore leaving a horrible stink that wouldn’t go a way for days. We had fun watching the divers especially two families, 4 kids and 4 adults all divers and were guessing how long before the first scream and who would scream first. Didn’t take long for the first kid to scream then she started crying while the adults helped her getting back to the beach. One mother and daughter floated out to our boat and started talking to us about the krill. We told them to hang onto the line of the flopper stopper which they gladly did. One minute into the conversation the girl stared squirming: “Ohmygosh they are crawling into my suite”, her mother trying to calm her that it was no problem and us telling her they don’t bite (didn’t know yet they did). The mother now started squirming: “Ohmygosh they are crawling into my suite”. They didn’t stick around for long and didn’t take much time either to swim the 80 feet back to shore. We knew swimming was out for a while.


Before and after the krill invasion we’ve been enjoying some more diving and found many incredible spots. Each one had something new to offer. At the Small Wall we found a cave on the foot of the wall, fairly good size and on the bottom nestled into the sand was a giant stingray (would have barely fit in our cockpit) resting but keeping one eye on us to see if we were a threat. Same dive we saw a slipper lobster or Spanish lobster resting in a giant sponge. That night we did a night dive under our boat. Wow, really kewl. The parrot fish were all nestled in coral beds and sleeping. One big slipper lobster was wandering around for food. Another type fish we’ve never seen swam around looking for food and many little beautifully colored crabs and shrimp roamed around also scavenging for food. One little crab looked like an orange piece of sponge I would have never know it was a crab hadn’t it moved. The eyes of the shrimp all sparkled like little diamonds in the light of our underwater lights.

The best dive spot is over at Klein Bonaire called Forrest. As soon as you look into the water from the dinghy the view takes your breath away when you see the yellowish coral heads scattered on white sandy patches surrounded by different type plants and colorful fish playing around and where two big angel fish come towards you right into your mask. You can almost hear them say: “Oh hi, oh, oh, let me look at you oh let me look, oh, oh, so nice to see you, oh, oh this is so exiting”, while they poke around your mast. If you’re slow and gentle enough they even let you pet them. The bottom under the dinghy is in about 15 feet of water and gradually sinks to about 20 feet from there a steep hill plummets down to 120 plus feet and when you follow the wall you dive over one valley after another with corals and plants we haven’t seen yet. This is truly the best dive we had and we of course came back a couple of days later brining some food for the cute angel fish which they gently took our of our hands, attracting all kind of other fish surrounded us.


Our neighbors Maggie and Stan on Inner Wisdom drive around the island every other day to feed the donkeys and took us along the ride. Bonaire’s wildlife consists of mainly iguanas, donkeys and goats. We managed to see a family of wild pigs. The bird life is a bit more exciting. Bonaire doesn’t get much rain especially the last year has been very dry which causes a problem for the donkeys to find food. So Stan and Maggie feed them on a regular basis and even bring water for them. It was really fun feeding the mama’s with babies.

They have been in Bonaire for over 6 months and introduced us to their friends Anna and Henk who live ashore and provide free wifi for us cruisers. We were invited for dinner at Henk and Anna’s but before dinner we went to Inner Wisdom as I had a dental appointment with Stan. I had a chipped tooth and we had talked about what the options were about fixing it. He offered to fix it if we had a dremel. So I sat in the dentist chair on his boat, which was me lying on the couch with my head in his lap and he used Sid’s dremel to fix my tooth. It was pretty funny. Sid was holding a flash light while Maggie was filming the procedure. And the gargle water next to the dentist lounge was a glass of wine. Stan even sanded my long K9 tooth down. This was so much fun which was followed with more fun and a wonderful dinner at Henk and Anna’s. We had left the dinghy at the Village Marina at Paradise Moon dock and when we returned late at night, “happy”, driving the dingy home we made it just to a couple of feet off Paradise when the engine stalled. We were lucky we had enough speed left to coast along side the boat. Sid investigated what could be wrong with the outboard when he realized that someone had stolen our gas tank out of the dinghy. We were lucky to have made it back to our boat. A bummer that when you finally get to a place you think is safe, you find out there is no such thing. Unfortunately the gas tanks are hard to come by and are very expensive and we had it just filled up with 30 dollars of gasoline, but luckily we still have the dinghy and engine so now the new gas tank is chained onto the dinghy and motor as well.

A couple of days later Inner Wisdom left for the Aves and we took over their mooring which is the best in Bonaire the first one right next to the marina so we have no boat on one side which gives us an incredible view of the northern part of Bonaire with its beautiful sunsets. Not just that but the mooring came with a car. Stan had leased a car for 6 months and he still had 8 days left on the lease so he wrote it over to us and we have a car to get around. We took up their duty of driving around and feeding the donkeys.

Irene and Roland the Dutch/Swiss couple we met swimming buy our boat invited us for a Swiss meal at their house. Days later when Holland was playing Cameroon we went to the Wanna Dive Hut to watch the soccer game and ran into them as their resort is right across the street from the Dive Bar. They were just trimming the palm leaves of their palms. As we chatted I mentioned the donkeys and since she was going to bring the leaves to the donkey sanctuary she invited me to go along. Roland was so happy that he could join Sid watching the soccer game instead of having to help her. We drove to the sanctuary which is right next to the airport. She introduced me first to the ladies running the place then she followed the instruction they gave her on where the donkeys were and to back up into the side road, then feed them. Done so, it took no time at all to be surrounded by 300 donkeys all wanting dessert. Irene of course, having done this so many time, knew the drill, got out of the car and started unloading the palm leaves. I got out of the car and stood there for just a second too long and I was boxed in by all the donkeys. At first a bit intimidated I realized that they were as docile as puppies. But it was too late for me to help Irene I could not even open the car door they were all around us. Eventually I managed to open the door reach for the camera and take some photos. The leaves were gone in no time. We managed to get into the car and slowly drove away from the donkeys which started to follow. Back by the entrance of the park we were let into a pen where they kept the babies, one was just one month old, how cute. This was really a fun visit.






Of course we try to get together with Randy and Lourae regularly and she invited the whole fleet for a second potluck at their house, which is always a lot of fun. We also had Henk and Anna aboard Paradise for dinner as a thank you for letting us use the wifi and just because they are super nice people, after all our boat is right in front of their beach.



One morning we woke up this weird looking mega yacht was floating in the bay, later we found out that it is a “Giga Yacht” and belongs to a Russian multi billionaire 36 years of age and his wife who is a super model. That thing was huge and at first you don’t know whether you like it or hate it. Once it was voted the ugliest yacht in the world. By the way “A” is the 11th biggest privately owned yacht in the world. http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702303695604575181911796253780.html


A couple days later Moon Dancer our diving buddies came back. Sure was a happy reunion. Boats still come and go and most only hang around for 2 weeks max and nobody seems to be interested in getting to know one and another, when 4th of July rolled in nothing happened, nobody wanted to celebrate. Sid and I heard that Captain Don’s had a 4th of July celebration with fireworks so at 9 pm we snuck over there by dinghy tide up to one of the moorings in front of their dock and waited about 5 minutes before it started. It was amazing we were positioned right under the fireworks. Happy 4th of July!

Our visa ran out on the 13th of July so we decided it was time to tackle the immigration guy to get an extension. This dude was pretty unfriendly and even though we told him that Sid had extended dental work ahead of him, he said that this was no reason to stay. Kind of reminded me of Trinidad when they told Sid that my broken ankle is not a reason to stay. After he let us sit in the hallway for what it seem an eternity he finally came back and told us flat our no, and after Sid’s protest didn’t do any good I pulled Sid’s pension deposit slip out, handed it to the “Chief” as he was introduced to us and told him that we are not going to be a burden on the island. He looked at the slip, thought for a few seconds, excused himself and left us alone for another who knows how many minutes, then came back asked for the passports to take a copy after that wanted to know if we had a phone, which we don’t so he offered to send us an email to let us know. Before he stomped out again Sid asked him if we could have our paper work back. “Paperwork???” The secretary had neglected to give him our paperwork including the letter from the dentist. When he saw the dentist note he changed completely around, was super friendly and apologized that it had taken so long and promised to send us an email within a couple of days. Since it fell on a weekend we gave him until Thursday. No email had arrived so we went back. A new officer was now dealing with us and same thing as unfriendly as she could be until the chief came in, recognized us, apologized that he hadn’t sent an email yet but that he was glad we came back and gave us a 2 months extension. Yeah, what a guy!!! So folks we’re here for a while longer enjoying the crystal clear water and the fabulous diving and of course are watching the soccer world cup game when Holland got beat by Spain, what a good game.

I have to mention that several diving instructors have told us that there are no sharks here. Wrong, I saw one swimming away from our boat!



Tuesday, June 08, 2010

Bill and Nell in and on Paradise

Just before Bill and Nell had arrived a wind reversal was predicted, which is not a good thing as the wind comes from the southwest and right into the mooring fields and depending on how strong the wind is the waves can break right under the boat, not a good place to be. Although they predicted a weak wind reversal we decided it was saver to take a slip in the marina, two reasons not having to worry about Paradise instead being able to have fun with Bill and Nell. They stayed at the Golden Reef Inn about one mile from the marina and had a wonderful surprise as their 1 bedroom apartment was upgraded to a 2 bedroom. The Inn was full and I think it helped a bit us knowing the owners Ed and Liz that they were the lucky winner of the upgrade. Ed even suggested that we could use the second room, so we did move into the apartment with Bill and Nell until the wind reversal was over and Paradise could be safely left on the mooring again. Two days later Paradise was gently bobbing again on the mooring. Every day we went diving, that day we went to the Wind Sock area just a bit south of the airport where there are seas horses. Didn’t see any but did see a turtle and the underwater scenery was absolutely the most beautiful we’ve ever seen.Since we were on the southern part of the island we decided to show Bill and Nell that part, drove along the salt water ponds with the huge salt mountains then ponds with flamingos, by the lighthouse and had lunch at Jibe City where a big lagoon invites all the wind surfers. Lunch was wonderful we sampled a platter with many local appetizers sipped on a pitcher of sweet sangria when thick clouds started rolling in due to a tropical wave. We didn’t think much of it but as we drove back to the marina and the clouds darkened and the wind started to pick up we had Bill drop us off at the marina so that we could tend to Paradise. As we left the marina in our dinghy 3 foot wind chops awaited us. The wind was blowing from the southwest and it was a challenge getting back to Paradise, her bow now bouncing 6 feet out of the water. The same time we noticed all the locals getting their little boats off the moorings and towing them towards the marina. It was a wind reversal caused by strong squalls. It only took us a split second to start the engine and get the heck off the mooring and headed across to Klein Bonaire where we took refuge in the lee of the island. The wind kept blowing around 25 knots but we were in calm water and truly enjoyed the new surrounding. We were just sorry that Bill and Nell couldn’t join us. Eventually we ventured ashore walked along the white sandy beach, swam in the crystal clear water, had a cocktail onboard while waiting for the wind to calm. A few hours later the wind gave up a bit and changed direction due east again. Still a huge squall was hanging on the horizon so we waited a bit longer but the squall never closed in so we headed back to the mooring field where our neighbor boats still hobby horsed around. Seeing them bouncing around uncomfortably we changed direction and headed once more into the marina and took our old slip and spent another fun night at Bill and Nell’s. The marina was so nice and never charged us for that night.

Bill is one of our biggest Blog fan and follows us often if not daily so it was even more fun having them both here and sharing our cruising live with them. We met Bill and Nell in New Bern NC having lunch at the restaurant I’ve worked and then Sid at West Marine where he worked. Later that day we had them over for cocktails in and on Paradise and stayed friends ever since. As we headed up into the Chesapeake Bay a few months later we rendezvoused in

Urbana for the Oyster Fest. Bill and Nell invited us then to visit them at their home, directions followed as: head up the Poquoson River until you get stuck in the mud, drop anchor, the house will be 2 miles from there, key is…., truck key is….., bring your shower stuff and laundry and make yourself at home. So here they were enjoying a little bit of Paradise with us.

It was really wonderful having them here and we went diving every day at a different location and also explored the rest of the island including the National Park which only has dirt roads to drive on. That was fun bouncing over the bumpy wash board roads and we stopped at every mentioned historical or some rather hysterical sites. The last 7 Kilometers were tough and we all agreed we would not drive this route a second time. We also wanted to go diving off the park but the water access was pretty tough so we decided the best diving area was right under Paradise.






Bill is the funniest email writer I know so I asked him if he would write an article for the Blog as well:

This past week Nell and I experienced the true meaning of life "in and on Paradise". What an unbelievable adventure we had in Bonaire with Sid and Manuela!!!!! On and off their boat, above and below the water. An absolutely amazingly good time. What great hosts.!!!! We were treated like royalty from the time our plane landed to the last minute it left for home by Manuela and Sid.

Manuela met us at the airport and helped us with every thing from our luggage to getting our rental truck to showing us the way to........ and checking in at the Golden Reef Inn.

Good thing Nell and I were rested because it was non stop adventure from then on!!! After we checked in we picked up Sid at the marina and we rolled, nonstop from then on the rest of the week.

LeRoy suggested we "Bring plenty of books to read" in one of his emails. I had about worn him out asking questions in preparation for visiting "Boatbumms" since they just got back from Bonaire and knowing they had been to Bonaire quite a few times. Soooo thanks much Leroy. All your tips came in handy for sure!!

We hardly had time for a "nap" at night much less read any books. Heck, we never did get around to reading the material about the island that was given to us when we checked in. Most days we went way past........as Sid says, "cruisers midnight (9pm). It was most often near landlubbers midnight (12:00) before we crashed. Then up early the next morning (hey, it was early for us vacationing folks) for diving and or exploring the island. I don't think we missed any parts of the island. We would have never got to see and experience all the wonders this place has to offer if it wasn't for Sid and Manuela!!!!! What a beautiful, amazing, interesting place. A lot more history there than we imagined. I think the only thing we didn't get to do was land sailing. The days we could fit into our busy schedule, the wind just wouldn't cooperate. Soooo, I guess that means we will just have to go back............

Two nights for dinner we ate to die for meals on Paradise. Prepared by a world renowned chef, Manuela. Assisted by Captain Sid who also made us great cocktails. Fresh Mangrove Snapper and all the fixings one night. Lobster, yea, Lobster and Chateau Briand with all the fixings (all fresh home made at that, just a note here, you don't get nut'n on Paradise unless it is made from scratch!!!!!) another night. Complete with Caribbean sunset, and of course candle light.

We washed it all down with Captain Morgans and wine........what a life. Somebody has to do it.






Other nights, Chef Manuela prepared luscious meals where we were staying. Absolutely delicious!!!!!!!!!! We ate like we were at a ten star resort every single night !!!!!!!! Unbelievable.

We all got in quite a few dives all over the island including one night dive off of Paradise. Absolutely amazing down under..........








We also headed to Klein Bonaire on Paradise which was absolutely the best. I know we started out to go diving on Klein Bonaire island, but ended up taking a cruise around part of the island since the wind turned on us and it was too rough to dive over there. We ultimately got to see the island from a whole different vantage point. And it was absolutely beautiful. How lucky can we get. Cruising on Paradise, in Paradise, in the Caribbean Sea with a refreshing drink taking in the sea breeze. It's all to die for............Nell and I had to pinch ourselves to see if all this was really real!!!

We capped off our last evening on Bonaire with a wonderful dinner at Randy and Lourae’s house. Absolutely gorgeous place. Thanks sooooo much for inviting us up to your "Paradise". Nell and I thoroughly enjoyed the evening. What great hosts.

Our last day we spent on Paradise enjoying the best home made, from scratch, of course, it's the only way one is going to get ANYTHING ON PARADISE!!! (ain't no pre made, bought stuff on this floating resort !!!!!) ..........Bloody Marys. And of course we were taking in all the Caribbean breeze and sight and sounds we could before we had to be on our plane for home.

Nell received a HOMEMADE gift of necklace and ear rings. Custom made by Manuela. Absolutely gorgeous. They looked stunning on Nell. Everything Manuela does is from scratch, homemade, and absolutely perfect. What a great gift. Nell absolutely loves them. Made from jewels Manuela found in the Caribbean Sea.

A short dinghy ride back to the marina, Sid took us to the airport in our poor ole boo booed truck...........well, that is another story we will have tell at the next happy hour.........one that Sid would just like to dump at sea.

Sid and Manuela, thanks sooooo much for such a wonderful time. There is just no way to describe the amount of fun we had this past week. We did soooo much in this short week I can't hardly remember it all!!!!!!!!!! It went by sooooo darn fast. This was truly one of those vacations one just cannot put into words how great it was. Pictures won't even do it justice. But they would help.....a little............You guys are just absolutely the best hosts and the best couple there is. Thank you for such a great wonderful time.

As you say "hugs and kisses"

Bill and Nell









OK gang grab a cocktail and we will start the next happy hour Bill mentioned to tell the story
Sid would just like to dump a
t sea.

Ready?!

The last evening Bill and Nell were here we were invited at Randy and Lourae’s Villa Blue. As Sid drove out of the parking lot to pick up Bill and Nell, two big trucks were blocking the few and as the road looked clear and Sid headed out a car speeding now slamming the breaks and leaving a 70 foot tire skid marks crashed into the side of the truck. Luckily nobody was seriously hurt the girl hit her head in the wind shield and had a bad headache. I was tossed from the right pack passenger seat across to the backrest of the driver’s seat and hit that pretty hard. My ear and shoulder was burning. Sid said he was fine but did also hit his shoulder. Two hours later the scene was cleared, paperwork was signed, Randy drove us to pick up Bill and Nell and later at Villa Blue the BBQ was sizzling with different assortments of meat Sid barbequed, the drinks were flowing and we put the accident behind us. I have to mention though how impressed we were with the accident procedure. The insurance companies in Bonaire were tired of getting ripped off by the cops so they have their own investigator for accidents, a mini van with built in office, computer and all. The trained inspector takes photos, notes, files paper work and the next day all Sid needed to do was to present the paper work to the police at the station. The whole ordeal was painless (expect for the bumps and bruises) even at the car rental place bringing the damaged car back all Sid had to do was to pay the deductible from the insurance. I have to add though if you don’t speak the local language you automatically at fault.

Even with this ending we had a wonderful time with Bill and Nell and on their last morning enjoying Bloody Maries on Paradise we recapturing the whole week. Bill and Nell thanks for visiting we had a wonderful time and sorry we couldn’t make it more exciting! Oh and by the way Bill and Nell for sure never thought in their whole entire life they would ever have to deliver Orville Redenbacher Popcorn, Scott sponges and some Trader Joe’s stuff to Bonaire. Thanks again for all the goodies you brought us.

Popcorn at the movies thanks to Bill and Nell: