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The cruising adventures of Sid and Manuela

Saturday, October 30, 2010

Trip around Curaçao

WHYYYYYYYYYYY US??????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was putting groceries away when I saw a bee inside the boat, hmm weird --- the hatches are closed and the AC is running --- hmmm --- must have come in with Sid. Five minutes later I see one crawl up the mast --- hmmmm --- nobody left the boat: "hey Sid I think we may have bees in the mast again!" - "Nahhhh!" He goes out and checks, comes back: "nothing", sits down at the computer again and not two minutes later he sees one crawl up the mast: "I be damn!", so he goes out again this time with the binoculars sits in a chair on the dock and watches. Sure enough a couple of bees flew in and a few flew out. If this isn't called DEJAVU, yikes. Thought you might get a chuckle out of this, because we were not laughing arghhhhh.

What’s this thing about three time’s the charm; this is the 5th time for us. Why us???!!!!

Sid had it under control instantly when he pumped pesticides up the mast and the pro he is now with the help of a fan blowing under the floor boards and up to the top of the mast which turned into a smoking chimney. Sid had a sore neck from watching the mast head for an hour.

Here a few photos of our surrounding:

We now are on week 4 waiting for the refrigerator company to end their vacation; it’s getting a “littleold and frustrating. So what do you do when you’re stuck? Easy, rent a car! We are so good in choosing times for that, like last time it also rained buckets this time, but no problem the day was dedicated to shopping. We found a few new stores and a very nice wine store where you can taste any wine they sell, really any! I had a good time while Sid had fun watching me. Later in the afternoon the weather cleared and with the freedom of the car we started looking for an inviting patio restaurant to enjoy a cocktail after all it was 5pm. I think they all knew we were coming and changed the signs “Open at 6”. Finally on top of a hill overlooking part of Spanish Waters we found “El Gaucho” not open until 6 either but they welcomed us to the bar where we enjoyed not just the view but a couple of cocktails each. The manager let us know that they have a free Shuttle to run guests back and fourth, kewl, we’ll definitely come back.

Although Curacao is double the size of Bonaire it only takes one day to drive around the island and see everything. The island is a lot prettier and definitely greener than Bonaire result of more rainfall, although we really do miss the anchorage and clear water in Bonaire. Our first destination was Santa Marta a very hilly area which revealed an incredible view over the very protected but isolated bay surrounded by hills. As we came to what we expected to be a nice beach with a restaurant we found an abandoned resort that had been gutted to rubles. Amongst a few private homes nothing else was there and we had to turn around at a dead end. Next stop was Santa Cruz a small beautiful sandy beach with palm thatched roofs and the water’s edge lined with chunks of coral and broken shells.

Next stop was West Punt a very picturesque area with a very few small beaches surround by high cliffs with beautiful houses built on top. We were looking for Playa Piskado known for restaurants serving wonderful local dishes but our luck again the beach was under construction. We returned to the restaurant above the cliff in Playa Forti with the spectacular view over West Punt area and had lunch. Sid’s burger wasn’t so good, didn’t even look good but my fish platter was quite tasty, although for what I was told that all the seafood are caught here, so I was a bit surprised that they catch imitation crab in these waters. We watched some brave tourists jumping down the 50 foot high cliff into the crystal clear water. Seemed to be some kind of “Fetch your Flip-Flopthing as every diver tossed their flip-flops down the cliff and then jumped after them. It was fun watching.

A short distance down the road around the north end of the island we found Sheta Boka National Park with Boca Pistol a blow hole. This side of the island is as rocky and hostile as the east side of Bonaire. Also pretty much everything that grows on the islands has thorns. It is a very beautiful island. The blow hole was pretty impressive.

With Sid’s lead foot it took only 20 minutes of driving to get back to Willemstad. Sid’s shoes are blown out so we tried to find replacements, yeah right! Shopping here is as tough as it is in Bonaire and the shoe store that sells Nike’s were all sold out, all they had left were the shoes on display. The sales girl helping Sid checked if they had one of the shoes in Sid’s size, unfortunately or fortunately not because just as we were ready to leave the store she brought up the fact that it was a lady’s shoe, silly girl!

The following day we drove around the southern part of Curaçao our neighborhood, and drove probably every road or dirt path there is. The southern part is not as hilly but still pretty remote and beautifully green. I have no idea how we missed the big sign into the Ostrich Farm but after a few u-turns we found it. Like any typical tourist we signed up for the tour on the safari bus around the farm. We had fun and the tour guide fluent in Dutch, English, Spanish and Papiamento explained interesting facts you would never guess. We noticed that many females had naked butts, so we figured it was kind of allergy or something. His explanation was that when they lay eggs they need more calcium and in order to get that they pull their own feathers out and eat them. Some are smarter than others and eat the feathers of their mates instead.

They lay about 40 to 80 eggs a year. Their brain is smaller then their eyes therefore a bit on the dumb side as they could just duck under the fence and escape, butThe farm has different sections, eggs hatchery, nursery, pen were the ostriches will eventually turn into ostrich burgers. An ostrich can easily reach 80 to 100 years of age so they keep the same ostriches for breeding. They also had some emus, which lay eggs about half the size that of an ostrich and in dark green. Their brains as well are a bit too small for them to realize how high they can jump and escape.

The ostrich eggs are so strong you can stand on them without breaking them, but drop it and it breaks, wow. By the way one ostrich egg is the equivalent of 24 chicken eggs, that's a lot of omelettes. The farm has its own ecosystem. Since the grass growing on the island is too salty for the birds they have a great lawn mower team of black bellied sheep eating all the grass then are moved into the next pen to clear and so on. Not just that a three hundred pound ostrich can produce about 100 pounds of useful meat, what to do with the left over. Easy, build a pond and get three good sized crocks problem solved. They are quite fond of the delicious ostrich meat and bones. Neat little ecosystem wouldn’t you say?

After the very informative tour we sat at the restaurant and enjoyed the best burger ever an ostrich burger, yummy. Best yet they also have a free shuttle so I know we will come back for another burger or even a nice juicy ostrich steak.

Continuing our tour we took a bumpy road to Playa Kanoa the islands surfer’s beach. Neat area but oh boy in heavy surf I don’t think this place is very safe as the waves end on a shelf of stone, ouch. There also was a little lagoon were several fishermen keep their boats, looking at the entrance and the surfer dudes we wondered how they mastered to get into the lagoon with surf breaking heading between two reefs in a very, very narrow channel. Just as we discussed this one came back and showed us how it’s done. The main thing is timing and motor power.


Earlier that day when we missed the ostrich farm we found a kewl looking restaurant with an aviary and believe it or not the sign said open from 11 till 11 and since it was already cocktail time again we decided to go there and check it out. Guess what??!!! They are closed on Thursdays, our luck again. We knew the Hyatt Hotel was open so we headed there instead. Wow, what a ritzy place, at the lobby bar we felt way under dressed and were intimidated to order a drink, instead we walked the beautiful hotel grounds to the beach restaurant. Beach restaurant sounds a bit more like shorts and T-shirts right? Wow we now were really under dressed. Nice though and the bartender didn’t mind our attire a bit and did talk our ears off.

We had a fun couple of days.

(We are in the red circle).

The weather has been a bit out of the ordinary with high temperatures, humidity, no wind and occasional squalls with rain and wind out of any direction. This weather was called Monsoon weather which was caused do to some weather system north of us sucking up all the wind. Then just a few days ago this huge system started building up to far south between Africa and turned into a Low.The system was 600 miles across we knew this was not a good sign. This Low turned into a tropical depression and is now hurricane Tomas beating up St. Vincent and St. Lucia as its eye is right over them as I’m writing this. As with every storm system you never know where they are headed until they become a hurricane. It was uncertain what kind of weather we would get we could be the target of a tropical storm. Luckily Tomas built into a hurricane rather fast which is helping us out. Tropical storms can head any which way but a hurricane normally heads in a northerly direction unless it looses strength back to a tropical storm, then any direction again. We still are monitoring the situation and know that with eventual strong squalls and higher gusts we will get a lot of rain and definitely wind out of the west but we are out of the cone of tropical force winds.

Sid got a crew position on a very fast boat, a Henderson 30 name “Team Ibis” which is feared by the other race boats here in Curacao. Their only competition is a Grand Soleil. Team Ibis needed an extra crew for the Heineken Regatta which is an annual event and held this year on the 13th of November. Sid’s really exited about it. Team Ibis is right across from our slip.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

43rd International Sailing Regatta Bonaire

Just two days before we left for Bonaire at 3 in the morning we were rudely awaken by the refrigerator sounding like a skeleton jacking of in a tin can. Then the unit ran and ran without lowering the the temperature; we knew then we had a serious problem. Sid tried to contact Glacer Bay for two days but nobody answered the call. Even now two week later there is still no answer they must be either on vacation or busy with the Annapolis boat show. Luckily we have the option to use our freezer as fridge. Although a bit small it can only hold stuff for two dinners at a time which mean I will have to do more shopping trips into town, which is not very convenient from here. There is nothing within walking distance from Seru Boca, actually from the entire Spanish Water area. The Hyatt Hotel on which property we’re on provides a shuttle at 08:15 to the main entrance from where we can catch a local bus. Most of the time the Shuttle does not show up and by the time we finally get to the bus stop they now run only once an hour, if. One of the grocery stores Vreugdenhill sends a daily free bus to the marinas for a one hour shopping trip but for Seru Boca only twice a week. So we’ll be roughing it until we can get the fridge fixed.
Just good we had not much in the fridge left other than pickles jars, sauces and such things nothing on food was lost and freezer was empty as we were going to turn it off anyway while in Bonaire.
We are so out in nowhere that even the taxis don’t like to drive out here and charge outrages 45 dollars to get to the airport, it’s cheaper to rent a car and we did just that. Imka a local rents his cars out for 25 bucks per day, we rented it for three days and Jeannie our neighbor on Dragon Fly drove us to the airport in the morning and had the car for the rest of the day. The first rental day we hit every grocery store on the island. The second day we had to check out with the authorities which took half the day and as we finally started on our excursion around the island it started raining so hard we could not see the roads as they turned into rivers. We ended up in a little cove named Playa Porto Marie and sat in the car in a heavy downpour with roaring thunder for at least 20 minutes before it was safe to head for the restaurant on the beach and enjoy lunch.
The flight to Bonaire was short and sweet in a Britten-Norman BN-2A Islander which has room for 9 passengers. The copilot seat is open for a passenger and I was the lucky winner to sit next to the pilot. I was amazed that after take off it was a straight shot and only 25 minutes later we landed in Bonaire. Although we were sitting on the runway for at least 30 minutes as they lost communications with one of the towers. 5 planes were in front of us and when the runway was cleared we enjoyed watching their take off, especially the US Air Force tanker who is based here. Randy and Lourae were already at the airport and first thing at Villa Blue we all hit the pool. (Click on photos to view bigger).
The Bonaire Regatta is a huge event, so big the schools in Curacao and Bonaire close during race week. The evenings were filled with Regatta Festivities along the Sea Promenade, Wilhelmina Park and on the streets of Kralendijk. Stands with variety of local foods, souvenirs, games and handicraft attracted locals as well as tourists. International and local bands were performing daily until 3 in the morning. The 2010 Regatta also is a very special and unforgettable regatta as it was the last regatta within the Netherlands Antilles. Due to this they dedicated the 2010 Regatta to the Netherlands Antilles as gratitude for the support received from the sister islands and Aruba during the last 42 years. On Saturday October 9th just before we entered the magical 10.10.10 at midnight, date of the dissolution of the Netherlands Antilles and the official entry of Bonaire, St. Eustatius and Saba as special municipalities in the Kingdom of the Netherlands the sky filled with an explosion of fireworks. Kind of funny to think that one minute before midnight on the 9th we were still in the Netherlands Antilles and with the first second of the 10th we were in Holland and didn’t even have to travel.
We had many racing classes: Racing Class 1 and 2, Cruising 1 and 2, Open Class, Multihulls, Optimist, Sunfish, Laser-Splash, Beach Cat, Sailboards, Traditional Fishing boats, Windsurfing and Microboats. Randy and Lourae’s “Moko Jumbie” is a 24 foot Corsair Trimaran a little bullet running away from our competition which had no chance, one was the new 42 foot Lagoon Catamaran “Jacky S” (Venezuela) which is as slow as a snail the other one was a Main Cat. The funny thing was the owner of Jacky S was talking with Randy about the boat rating at the Captains Meeting the day before the start and asked Randy: “How can your boat be rated faster than mine?” Randy just said: “I guess we have to wait and see out there!” He also introduces his crew to us, his sponsor, the chef and a Venezuelan Olympic sailor. We were not sure if we should be intimidated, he sure came across that way.









Race Day 1:
Not much wind just enough in the squalls and kept us moving all day on a 22 mile course. The wind was out of the W and SW which never happens on race week and we had a down wind start and that was the last time we saw our competition. We finished the race, sailed the boat back to marina, put her away, washed her, got in the car and drove 20 minutes up to the house, got into our bathing suites, grabbed a cocktail, jumped into the pool started looking at the boats and there was our competition only half way through the race. We pretty much sailed fast in light conditions because we finished at least four hours in front of our competition. Weather was rainy and squally all day and we were soaking wet and as soon as we cleared the finish line the sun came out again.













Race Day 2:
Was a 17 mile course and again a down wind start, light winds all day but no rain. Again we were in the pool before our competition finished. Jacky S had to finish with navigation lights on, poor guys. (Note all the last two photos of the boats we're passing is after our finish with juts our main up).













Race Day 3:
Race was shortened to 8 miles due to very, very light winds. Same thing again we started and left our competition in the dirt, by the time they caught up to the dirt it was settled. We passed every boat in the fleet except for four but our elapse time was faster than any boat in the fleet and our corrected time was also faster than any boat in the fleet.













Race Day 4:
They had us set for a 20 miles race while the rest of the fleet had the same 8 mile course, so we asked the judges if we could race the same as we really have no competition in our class, at least now we could compete with the bit the racing boats. This time we weren’t as fortunate to be the fasted but only by 2 minutes. The wind was pretty fluky anywhere from 2 to 15 knots causing a lot of grief to the boats with spinnakers. We did the 8 miles in have the time as the day before.Even the commentator at the finish line called us animals. The days top speed was 13.4









Coming to the finishing line (Chuck on Tusen Takk II took these two photos including the ones of the Trophy Ceremony, thanks Chuck):





Challenger, Clair de Lune, North Star and Tusen Takk II were still in Bonaire and cheered for us at the trophy ceremony.
We got our racing fix in, had a blast and truly enjoyed being spoiled at Villa Blue. Randy and Lourae thanks so much for everything this was an unforgettable event and just wonderful to stay with you. Many thanks.
The flight home was really kewl, we had the same pilot and he let me sit next to him again. After take off he turned the plane around immediately and so we flew right over Kralendijk and the mooring fields what a sight we recognized the boats on the moorings, saw the marina all the way up to Villa Blue.





In Curacao he flew across the island towards Spanish Water and right over our marina where Paradise was waiting for us. (Photos: Spanish waters including anchorage and our marina).








Then he followed the coast line along the western side of Curacao with the most spectacular few of Willemstad. What an incredible scenic flight, wow. (Photos: West Coast of Curacao and Willemstad).













We were surprised to see Pam on Sundial instead of Jeannie to pick us up. Imka rented our reserved car to somebody else; he’s obviously not very reliable. Really a bummer as we had planned to do the island tour on Sid’s Birthday which is today the 13th.
His Birthday present was his first SSC check yeah, Happy Birthday Sid!