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| My favorite seat on the boat |
So sorry it took so long
for an update. As you know my computer crashed and usually I always back it up
but of course the one time I don’t it crashes. I lost a lot of stuff including
the update I never was able to post due to Internet problems. Luckily the
photos are all still on the camera and the lost blog reports I can get back on
our blog. The internet is another problem here, there are 5 SIM cards you can
buy here in Panama: Cable and Wireless (we call Worthless), Movistar, Claro,
Digicel and Mas Movil. I got 4 of them except Worthless and no matter which one
I buy Internet time on ,I loose the money because a) week or no signal, b) the
antenna at that time is out of order, c) lightning in the area which knocks all
of them out, d) too many people on skype or downloading movies. I could
probably come up with more reasons. The latest I figured out that my new
Samsung phone works perfect as a router.
At Multimax I found a
great deal on a new computer an Acer the only one I could find here in Panama
with English keyboard. 299 bucks, not bad and I was told that the 8.1 Windows is
the upgrade of the horrible 8.0. I have to laugh about this because when our
friend Reg finally got a computer we had to listen to him moan and groan and
cuss how user unfriendly and horrible 8.0 was. Here I am sitting in front of
two new computers, well heck for 299 bucks we bought Sid his own which
eventually will be used as a navigation back up. If we ever get those darn
things to work. The laughing part is me sitting at the darn computers sounding
just like Reg. Many times I wonder how many times this super flat computer will
skip on the water before sinking so the fish might be able to watch Nemo. I know Reg got a kick out of it when I
What’sApp’d Debi how I felt about the darn 8.1. Of course the computer did not
come with Microsoft Office but Jeff the cruisers’s computer Wizzard told me he
had Office 2013. I went to his office and after he opened both our computers
and started downloading he said: Ooops! His version was in Spanish. He came
through for us and a week later he let me know he had the English version. Someone
here told to me just upload Open Office which is the same as Microsoft office
but free, whatever you do don’t download the program. It comes with a lot of crap that in the
background. It slowed down the computer and this pop up window comes up “having
problems with slow computer click here” and every time opening a site lots of
adds pop up which could not be removed. It also installed Opera a new browser
that will attach itself onto your address book and send invitation to download
Opera to all your friends. It took me two weeks to find all the critters and
uninstall them. OK after all the ranting here is our update:
It is dangerous to walk
the marina at night after a wonderful dinner on Runner. I think the problem was
Sid was still sober. He had to go to the bathroom so bad he cut a corner where
the dock carts are kept which are white painted carts with loooong handles. The
problem is they are well used and the white paint on handles are long gone so
in the dark you can’t see the long handle and Sid walked right into one. We
were holding pinkies, he in slow motion started to fall. Of course I did not
let go of his pinky and tried to keep him from falling when there was a loud “krack”
noise, I didn’t just hear but also felt it.Sid fell to the ground where he was
lying in agonizing pain holding his hand and rolling from side to side. We
thought for sure his little pinky was broken. A couple days later he was sure
it was not but all three fingers were dislocated. Still now months later he is
still in a lot of pain plus he does not let me hold his pinky anymore either. How
unromantic is that J.
We had just received our
new Master Volt AGM batteries poor Sid had to install with his broken hand. Let
me tell you these batteries are heavy! With a lot of groaning and pain killers
he managed to put them in. Nice to have new batteries and not having to run the
engine several times a day. Now we just need our new wind generator and we are
in business. Our old one burned out in one of last year’s Puerto Lindo storms
and found the motor to replace online for 270 bucks. During a conversation with
our neighbor in Shelter Bay he found out that his wind generator only cost 340
bucks. Well guess what instead of ordering the parts we ordered a new one which
is waiting in Florida for us.
Carol the lady who works
the Mini Mart at Shelter Bay became friends with Deb and I. She worked 6 days a
week and told us the day she retires she wants to come play with us. After 4
years working there and being taking for granted, she put her resignation in.
Deb and I planned a surprise potluck for her. When she left her work for the
last time we all were at the pool waiting for her with a table full of munchies
and her own table set up with all the Gin Martiny ingredients, her favorit
drink, including shaker. She loved it. The following day Deb was cutting her
hair and talked her into having her hair colored. She agreed and so both came
up to the big bathrooms where I was ready for them. Carol couldn’t believe when
they opened the door there was snacks on the counter, cold bottle of champagne,
beauty stuff, nail polish. Deb colored her hair and we all painted our toe
nails. The second bottle of champagne we opened at the pool eating Carol’s BD
cake I made. Her BD was just around the corner so nothing wrong with
celebrating it a bit early. She had fun.
Three days later on her
real Birthday Saturday before Easter Carol invited us to an Easter Dinner on
her boat, but we had to show up with an Easter Hat. The ham her son Dylan BBQ
was delicious so was her scalloped potatoes and coleslaw. We all had a wonderful time.
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| Carol |
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| Reg, Deb and Dylan |
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| Australian Easter Hat |
Our dentist Ida is a
member of the Decameron Resort near Coronado, an all inclusive Resort. She got an incredible offer for 43
dollars per day per person and wanted to know if Runner and Paradise were
interested. My gosh 43 dollars we will do a lot of damage there don’t think the
resort would want us there but of course we said yes. On a Monday Ida and her
daughter Adriana picked us up in the marina and off we were on the 3 hour trip
to the resort.
The rooms were very nice with
a beautiful view over incredible pools and ocean. A tree next to the balconies
filled up with hundreds of little green parrots at night and leaving by
sunrise. This Resort is huge seemed like miles and miles long with pool after
pool and so many restaurants, it was hard to choose from where to fill our
bellies. We settled for the Japanese Restaurant since the Italian was booked.
Food was OK but company was great. Of course we never had to walk far to the
next bar. They made some really good margaritas. At 9pm there was Karaoke I was
dying to go for. They ran it for 30 minutes, not enough time for everybody to
sing. Afterwards was a really fun show that lasted a bit toooooo long. Sid and
Reg were tired and went to bed while the girls went for the disco starting at
midnight, which of course was on the other end of the Resort. Nothing was
happening yet at the disco except our stomachs growling so we went to eat
instead and realized that after all we were too tired to go dancing. Breakfast
was amazing the buffet loaded with yummy stuff. I don’t think I have ever eaten
soooo much for breakfast. We spent most of the morning in the pool then had
some more food, another incredible buffet for lunch and at 3 it was time to
head back. Although it was just a one night stay, it was so relaxing it felt
like we were there for 3 days. We sure did eat and drink more than the 43
dollars per person. Wonder if Ida ever will get that offer again J!
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| Our Pool |
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| This is what I call a double Margarita |
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| Ida the most gentle dentist |
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| Japanese Restaurant |
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| Deb had the best Seat in the car |
The kittens were just too
cute and it was amazing to watch them how fast they learned everything. We knew
the longer we had them the harder it would be to let them go. We never named
them, once you name them ,they are yours. The little girl is full of pee and
vinegar and wants to play constantly. The boy is a lover and loves to cuddle. I
know I will miss him the most.
After 6 weeks we decided
they were weaned enough for Annie a friend of Mariah’s to have. A year prior
Annie had rescued a black cat which she in the meantime has fixed so we knew she
was a responsible young lady and the kitties would find a good home. A lot of
tears were shed when the kitties left for Panama City. Tears of sadness but
also happiness that they found a good home. We were a bit worried that her
rescue cat would not take to them easy but she was amazing in taking them in
like they were her babies. Now Annie owns three black cats.
One morning on the Shelter
Bay bus back from shopping the girl sitting next to me found out we have been
in Panama for a while asked if I had met a boat with 6 kids on it. I said: “Invincible”?
She responded with “OMG finally someone who has met my family I’m the lost 7th
child”. She was crewing on a boat to the Azores. She looked just like her mom,
cute girl, was on her way to visit her family in Bocas Del Toro for Easter. Small world isn’t it.
Another night after a
wonderful dinner on Runner Sid and I walked back to our boat when we noticed
all kind of flash lights on the road and along the jungles edge. Of course we
went to investigate and the laundry lady told me that they all were crabbing
and showed me her full bucket of land crabs. Sid looked at me and the scavenger
I am ,we went back to the boat, I grabbed a bucket and went back to the laundry
lady and asked her how they catch them. She said with this and gave me a cloths
hanger. So off I went to join everybody else. The locals showed me how they
catch them, they step on their body then reach for the little claw first as
that is the mean one then the grab hold of the big claw and put them in a
bucket. I used the cloths hanger, I aggravated the crab until it latched itself
on the hanger then they went into the bucket. After 5 minutes I had 15 land
crabs and went home. Back at the boat I asked Sid for the BBQ tongues and went
back to the jungles edge. The locals looked at me funny when I showed up with
the tongues but laughed when they saw how much faster I picked crabs up then
they did. I bet you they now all use the BBQ tongues. Two crabs tried to hide
in a puddle of water, only their bulgy eyes stuck out, one swoop and they were
in my bucket. So in a total of 15 minutes crabbing I had about 40 in my bucket.
They were wonderful. I cooked them up with my Mexican hot sauce and also with
coconut milk and a few Thai seasonings, yummy.
Shelter Bay has many
nicknames “Scarry Bay” or “ Shelter Pay” because it’s the most miss managed
marina anywhere and very expensive. They have a daily, monthly, 3 and 6 monthly
and yearly rate. We were only going to stay one month so we paid 715 bucks a
months. Three months and 5 days later we qualified for the 3 months rate and a
refund of $867 dollars was returned to us, wow. I go with Shelter Pay, they
paid us. The yearly rates are probably really affordable.We didn’t ask.
We left and spent one
night in Portobelo and stored a lot of stuff from the V-Berth in our storage.
Had to make room for my brother’s Visit.
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| The boats are getting worse here. Look at this ones sun shade |
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| By the way this is the Dennis's boat that was trying to sink in East Lemons, it finally sank in Portobelo. One side was painted black, he was going to use it as a backpacker boat |
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| This is the other side the way we saw it in San Blas |
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| Sad sight |
Next day we tied up in the new Linton
Marina, which has no hook up’s yet, meaning
no water or electricity and no facility yet. Just lots of machinery
working on the haul-out ramp for now. The marina is open to the north and a
swell is coming through the cut between the island and mainland. Depending on
the wind and waves it can get a bit rough at times but by tying the boat
loosely not too tight to the dock the boat rides the waves nicely we barely can
feel the rocking. The construction of the marina is pretty kewl, the docks are
built for this condition with rubber strips pads between each dock to absorb
the shock. There is not an office or personel per say just a relative of one of the many owner who
is “common senseless” running it and not a boater, and has a lot to learn. Some
day when this place is finished it will be a top notch marina.
I was so excited when my
brother Gino finally arrived. We were going to leave for San Blas the following
day, but the weather wouldn’t cooperate, 20 knots of wind and 10 foot seas we
have to head into, an absolute no no. Runner finally left Shelter Bay after
almost a year and joined us at Linton Marina. Together, Deb, Gino and I went
snorkeling. Saw some pretty neat stuff, especially lots of colorful sponges.
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| Sid's shoe was blown off the dock so Gino and him went looking for it. Of course they could not find it |
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| A kewl bottle I found |
After 4 days we still were
not able to take off for the San Blas so I took Gino on a bus trip to Colon
from there we took a taxi to the expansion of the new canal. He was really
jazzed to see it and amazed at the enormous future canal, so are we each time
we see it. We tried to take a taxi back but bad news, none showed up out there.
So we took off by foot and walked along the jungles edge seeing all kinds of
colorful birds and butterflies including the electric blue morpho. You can hear
their flapping wings when they approach. Howler monkeys studied us as carefully
as we did them. Then a car came from the expansion and out went my thumb and we
got a ride to the main road. There, no taxi either, so we started walking with
thumbs sticking out towards colon. A Canal maintenance truck came by and drove
us all the way to Dos Mill. Gino did some souvenir shopping there, we had lunch
and took the bus home. A fun day, but not something he wants to do every day,
meaning sitting in the chicken bus where there is no leg room and by the time
you leave you can’t feel your butt anymore.
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| By the way that is one of the views we get to see on the bus rides into from Shelter Bay to Colon at the Canal |
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| The new locks |
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| The wall they have to break down when opening the canal |
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| We went there several times already this was with Ida, Reg and Deb about 2 weeks before my brother arrived |
No change in weather so I
asked Diane on Takes Me Away if Sid and Gino could help her getting her boat to
haul out in Panamarina. An adventure Gino enjoyed from boat ride to marina and
especially watching how the boat was pulled out of the water then later put on
stands in the yard. I followed later with the dinghy and joined them for lunch.
The ride back in the dinghy through the mangroves was also enjoyed.
There was finally an
opening with weather, waves were down to 7 feet, it was a go and Gino would get
to see the San Blas for 5 days. We got up early and to our horror a huge black
cloud covered the whole area and a heavy down pour started with heavy winds.
Neither Runner who is quite a bit larger than us was going to stick their nose
out there. Since we haven’t explored Isla Grande yet I opted to do that. It was
a bit of a bumpy ride to the island in the dink, but the walk along the
boardwalk and up to the lighthouse was delightful and the view magnificent. We
also agreed that the huge waves rolling on the wild sea was not something we
would want to be in. After the walk we took Gino across to Adriana’s he had a
huge crab and lobster on his last visit. This time we all had a whole fried
snapper for lunch with patacones, plantains cups filled with a yummy shrimp
filling on a local coconut sauce.
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| Defunct lighthouse |
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| Love the bar stools |
Our chance to go to San
Blas dwindled finally when we had 3 days to spend in the San Blas the weather cleared.
Runner had left already and we hotfooted behind them. As we neared Isla Grande
the motor started to sputter and the RPMs kept going up and down. As we turned
around the disappointment was unbelievable, nobody said a word. It was not
fair, Gino worked so hard on overtime and came all this way not to see the San
Blas, I can’t describe my frustration. Back in the slip Sid went to work and
found the magnetic algae controller full with algae, cleaned it, changed fuel
filters and after less than an hour we were back out there and no hiccups,
yeah, finally on our way to the San Blas. Poor Gino got sick and slept most of
the way. He was excited to see the first of the San Blas islands Chichime.
Since we only had 3 days we decided to bypass Chichime and head to the East
Lemons one of our favorite spots. We relaxed with a cocktail on deck and
watched a beautiful sunset. I have to say Gino has no boating experience and I
told him it was like camping. He did well and loved it. Told him to pump the
head 20 times after each use. He yelled jokingly at Sid one time “20 times not
15”! After I’ve been living for 27 year on the boat Gino finally had an idea
what it is like, what we do out here.(No not meaning pumping the head!)
The following morning
while Sid was working on the engine I took Gino in the dinghy around the
islands and for a beer on one of the kuna islands catering to tourism. Gino
loved it, the first island, well it was just a sand pile, neverless he stuck
his hands in the air saying “I can’t belive I’m in the San Blas”, neither could I but I was just thrilled that we were here.
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| Poor seasick Gino |
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| Recuperating in the hammock |
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| I am in the San Blas!!!! |
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| Paradise in background |
Later on in the afternoon we pulled anchor and had a wonderful sail, Gino even
enjoyed without getting sick, to the Hollandays by far the best part of the San
Blas.
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| My two boys |
Here we anchor in 8 feet of water which is as blue as the sky making you feel you are sitting in a swimming pool. Didn’t take long before Gino saw his first stingray. Runner was here already. Gino wanted to go to one the inviting island I used to do yoga on. We grabbed some money and rum went ashore where the same friendly Kuna welcomed us. We bought 3 cokes and the Kuna was overjoyed that he was included.
At 5 we were invited on
Runner for my Birthday dinner. As we climbed on board there was Deb wearing a
kitchen apron and holding a tray with my favorite drink “Silver Fizz” yum. Gino
got hooked on it on his last visit. Deb went all out for dinner, she made a
wonderful beef wellington. Gino brought up how wonderful it was to see how
close we cruisers are.
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| My caviar dip |
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| Gino was impressed with the wine airator, |
The following day we said
goodbye to Deb and Reg and sailed to the West end of the Hollandayse we have
not been to yet. There is not much room for a lot of boats and rather deep but
we did found spots with about 12 feet. This anchorage is the prettiest I have
seen in the hollandaise. I told Sid we needed to come back and spend some time
here. I took Gino ashore to the western most island where I had seen a lonely
Kuna. We walked up to him in introduce ourselves and asked if we could walk his
island. Tilo a very friendly Kuna showed us around and let us know that his
island was our island and we could come and go as we wished, same with the adjacent
island. He asked if he could come by to get some water later. I told him sure. He did show up with a jug we filled up and he
handed me 2 coconuts.
From his island we
ventured to the neighboring island which I heard has a village on the other
end. We walked along the beach across the palm tree packed island to other
shore and back. It was beautiful and no person in sight until we reached the
end of the island where about 8 Kuna huts stood. Only 2 were occupied. Several
friendly Kuna’s greeted us and I asked if they had any molas for sale. Gino
hadn’t seen them yet nor met Kuna Indians so this was very special. As many
molas as I have I’m a sucker for it and always find a new one. Gino bought a
few bracelets for his daughter. We noticed a path leading through the trees and
asked if we could walk the path. They said we were welcome to walk anywhere we
like. We followed the path and came to a most beautiful beach, took some photos
and walked to the water’s edge when an elderly Kuna couple came towards us hollering
something. So I walked up towards him and introduced ourselves again, but this
time the responds was very angry words wanting to know where the captain was. I
told him on the boat. He demanded that he needs to come ashore ASAP and pay him
3 dollars each. I told him I was here to buy molas to soften his mood. He
yelled at me and pointed at his wife who looks as acient as him and said does
she look like she makes molas you have to pay 3 dollars and how dare us walking
on his island. I explained that all the other friendly kunas had invited to do
so but no problem we will get off his beach. He still demanded 3 dollars to
walk his beach. I told him we are leaving and that I do not wish to walk a mad
Kuna’s beach, it was just in a broken Spanish as his was. So we left. Just a
few steps from his beach was another inviting beach and strolling along
enjoying the scenery and talking about going snorkeling next, Gino said: “There
is a crocodile!” no way was my responds but by golly there it was about 12 feet
away in the water all of his body out of the water, I have to add longer than
me, his eyes focused on us. We stopped and looked at it, started walking again
and it followed our beat, we stopped, it stopped, we walked, it followed
parallel to us. I told Gino that our dinghy is not far off so better walk fast
hop in the dinghy before it arrives with us. We did just that and both at the
same time said: “Don’t think I need to go snorkeling”. I said as well, “Don’t
think I want to hang around here too long”. Safe and sound on the boat and
quite a bit away from the croc, we still did not wish to go in the water.
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| Angry Kuna Beach |
It was Gino’s time to cook
his wonderful Carbonara and it was better than I remembered it. This time I
took photos of the process so that I can make it myself.
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| It was deliciouse |
We had a great sail back
to Puerto Lindo and even spotted a single dolphin. Although the RPMs did the
funny thing again.
Early the next morning
Gino and I took the bus into Colon were a rental car waited. All he wanted to
do in Panama City was to visit the huge Albrook Mall again where he bought some
presents for his family and he bought me a brand new Samsung phone for my BD.
Thank you Gino. Mine was in bad shape. Went to TGI Friday and had the biggest
Burger Gino has ever seen and from there to the airport.
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| My new phone that enables me to update this blog |
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| Present from Stefania perfect as a Gravyboat |
Gino had a wonderful two
weeks even though only 3 days in the San Blas but he left with saying that he
will be back next year with his daughter Stephania. Yeah!!!!
It was truly great to have
him and for me it was very important for him to see how we live. Marco has
somewhat an idea when he visited us a century back when we were still in LA. We
took him to Catalina for a week.
Here we are again in
Linton Marina and Sid working on the motor. This time he emptied the fuel tank
and cleaned it all out, changed all fuel filters again. Motor seemed to run
fine but after an hour the RPMs failed again. Every time he worked on the
engine he found something else from a tiny oil leak in a hose, diesel leak in
another and a water leak and it took a good month until all was fixed. The very
next day the water maker decided to give up the ghost. Sid found a faulty valve
we luckily found in Panama City. But there was no pressure to get the water into
the tank so he cleaned the filters and membrane. Still no difference and after
a chat with Desmond our watermaker guy here in Panama City, Sid cleaned the
membrane again this time with fresh water and voila it works. There’s only one
more thing to replace and that is the automatic bilge pump Sid is not looking
forward to that.
Sid was supposed to
deliver Sandial ,a friends boat, to Florida together with John his ex-brother
in law right after Gino left. Sid went to Shelter Bay, moved on the boat and John
followed soon. The boat has been sitting in the marina for 2 ½ years and Greg
the mechanic at this point had replace many hoses, hose clamps, wiring etc. The
day before John arrived from LA they filled up the diesel tanks which each
holds 475 gallons and off they went on a sea trial, all seemed to be fine,. Sid woke up to a diesel smell and found the
bilge filled with it. The tank had sprung a hole on the bottom that is almost
impossible to access. John arrived in time to help empty the tank. Greg who had
worked on Subs and, aircrafts, having spent hours inside fuel tanks, luckily is
a specialist. He fixed the problem, they filled the tank again and yet another
few leaks, empty tanks again and the decision was made there was not enough
time to get her to FL on time for John to make his next delivery to Hawaii. So
John flew home to return after his delivery to Hawaii. Ironically they were
underway and after 2 days, returned as the sailboat lost the generator and one
of the sails fell apart, so that delivery is also postponed. To this day Greg is
still working on the tank, the owners are in Florida until end of July and set
date is sometime in August.
For our plans until then
who knows we may make it to the San Blas.
Cruising plans are all written in Sand at low tide.
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