HAPPY NEW YEAR IN THE SAN BLAS

My brother Gino's idea when he was here last May

The parts finally came in and Sid fixed all that needed to be fixed and we started planning the provisioning for the San Blas. Not quite yet!!! Manuela’s tooth acted up and a short visit to the dentist revealed a root canal was needed, the procedure was started right there and then. What’s an extra week to spend in Linton at this point right?!! The following day my nose stuffed up and I felt a fever coming on.  A horrendous headache between my eyes woke me up plus I was drenched in a sweat then started uncontrollably shivering, oh oh, not good at all. I had two blankets on top of me but shivering did not go away. Finally sleep overcame and I slept a few extra hours until the smell of coffee woke me up. My bed was soaked and the thermometer reached 103.5 fever, ohoh definitely not good. Although the Panadol Sinus brought the fever down, but it kept staying at 100 and as soon as pill wore off it was back over 103 and the horrible headache came back. Of course it was a weekend and doctor offices were closed. Dear Katrin, a podiatrist, came over and checked me out. Did a few tests for sinus infection but by pushing against my sinuses or facing down did not hurt so she ruled that out. On Monday took the 5:30 bus into Colon to the Caribbe Hospital. Unfortunately the hospital’s system is on a first come first serve bases and as I arrived just a little before 9, 29 people already had signed in. Now I figure about ½ hour per person plus maybe a few drop out 8 to 10 hour? I waited a long 7 hours on the very uncomfortable chairs (tried them all had plenty of time for that). Doctor was great and did a thorough check up and asked many questions and told me what I expected: “I think you have dengue fever, let’s do a blood test!” I had all the signs for it. The dengue strain here is milder than most (there was nothing mild on the headache I tell you). Blood tests were ready in 3 days so in the mean time I took Panadol to keep the headache and fever at bay. The day I picked up the result was also the second and final procedure of my root canal. What a relief it was to get the negative results. After my root canal I decided to call my internist in Panama City and told her that the day after my root canal I developed a high fever and… She stopped me right there and then and ordered me ASAP to her office in Panama City. She said she would have an order for blood test ready for me. I drove into town and made it to Punta Pacifica and arrived at the same time as the doctor did. She did not want to talk much as she wanted me ASAP to do the test and said: I want to rule out a bacterial infection that could have been caused by the infected tooth which attacks the heart. Test results will take 3 days so if you hear from me on Sunday (of course a weekend again) you come ASAP to the hospital in the mean time I cannot give you any antibiotics until we know what we are dealing with. Yikes. Laboratory took blood out of both arms then I went home. My fever still spiked up and headaches popped up but at least not as strong anymore. Sunday arrived and by noon the suspense was too much for me, I called the laboratory myself. Didn’t think anyone would answer but they did. What great news: NO bacterial infection it was a viral infection. In the meantime the headaches have stopped and the fever was at 99 and no higher. Tuesday Sid and I took the early bus into Panama City, rented a car at Sixt and started provisioning. At 2 we pick up the results and saw my doctor. All was fine I had a sinus infection that was triggered by the root canal. She said she wanted to rule out the bacterial infection that requires a 3 week hospital stay on antibiotic drip, yikes. In the meantime my immune system had fought the sinus infection and there was no need to prescribe antibiotics. Our immune system is a wonderful thing. I was still a bit week and still had a slight fever but that didn’t keep us from provisioning for 2 days. Three days later on December 18^th we left the marina and headed to the San Blas. At last in the San Blas! 

We did not tell Debi that we were coming as every time we did something came up again (she knew we were going to arrive before Xmas sometime with a turkey but no exact date). The day we sailed to the San Blas I texted her several times like right after 10 when Price Smart opens: “sh…t no small turkeys left at Price Smart! (which wasn’t a lie just did not happen that day) 2 hours later wrote her: is a 10 lbs turkey big enough, found at Mega Depot (that happened as well 3 days earlier). About four o’clock she texted back: you must be still shopping. Responds: nope I am at home (which I was plus sailing to San Blas). Betty texted as well and wanted to know when we were heading their way, I answered “Soon”. At 5 PM we sailed by Bokonon where Deb and Reg were for dinner and did my Debi yodel. A loud Debi laughter greeted us with “you bitch” (in an endearing way only a girlfriend can call you). Right after we had anchored Betty hollered on VHF: Is that you Paradise? My response: Is that soon enough Betty? After dinner Debi and Reg joined us for a couple of glasses of wine. Great to see them.

Second evening we had a catch up dinner on Runner. Debi always wow’s us with her dinners. It’s like going to a 6 star restaurant.

The following day Debi was desperate for new pedicure so I had some fun painting her and Margo's toes:

Margo Xmas Paper Design

Debi's Santa and Xmas Tree and Xmas paper design

Manuela's snowy Xmas

In Europe we celebrate Xmas Eve and since it is a special dinner for me I invited Debi and Reg on a spur of the moment. 

I had Sambucca Shrimp planned on the gourmet Fettucini noodles that only need to be cooked 3 minutes, had bought them especially for this dinner. Second best noodles to fresh. I almost cried when I pulled the package out of the cabinet. The noodles were powder coated in blue, green and gray. Opening the package a puff of all colors was swirling in the air (amazing how much stuff I have to throw away due to mildew). I guess spaghetti is it. Dinner was still a hit but would have been better with the Fettucini and yes I could have made my own with my old, old Italian pasta maker but having made all the Xmas cookies already, not mood. I baked 4 kind of Swiss Christmas cookies and our special Christmas Zopf.

You have to try this recipe someday, I found it on a cooking TV show years back:

SAMBUCCA SHRIMP                                      Serving Size: 4

1 1/2 pounds shrimp -- peeled and deveined

2 shallot – chopped

1/4 cup tomatoes -- peeled and seeded

1/2 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons Sambucca

1/4 cup dry vermouth

Salt and pepper -- to taste

1 tablespoon parsley -- chopped

1/2 pound fresh Fettucine, 1/3 pound per person

Salt and pepper shrimp and sauté for a few minutes in butter and olive oil. Add shallots and sauté, add vermouth, Sambucca, cream, parsley and tomatoes (1/4 cup per person). Place shrimp around Fettucine. Add some butter to sauce and top shrimp and noodles.

Xmas was spent on Runner with her cooking the Turkey on the BBQ. Dinner was wonderful and company was very nice with Reg, Debi and Margo and Herb from Bokonon. Even lots and lots of presents.

Sid's T-Shirts I had made as he liked this sentence soooo much, he got it in 4 colors

Paradise looked festive with all the Xmas deco and lights the only other boat with lights up was Runner.

Santa's watching the sunset

BBQ Island in Holandes Cays

The Xmas winds have started to blow and the boat soon was covered in a spray of salt mist from the breaking reef not too far away. The spray was so heavy that the Xmas lights were dripping salt water during the day. Actually the outdoor lights I had bought at Price Smart blew out the third day. Sid was able to fix the string of white lights. As they lit up the colored string tried to light up but only on the very top part. I told Sid that and he said: but they are not plugged in, wait a minute! He came on deck and when he touched the white lights well they gave him a little shock. Needless to say we unplugged the white lights and so we had only the one colored 12 volt big bulb string, which still looked Christmassy enough.

With the wind comes the current, there is no way you can leisurely sit on a noodle with a cocktail in your hand without getting the feel of river rafting. Not even Sharky or Nipper as Sid calls our shark fin tempted us to go in the water. Funny to watch all he boats coming by here pointing and staring at Sharky.

Margo and Debi both have fish tanks (Debi 4) onboard with local reef fish they catch on their snorkels. Every day they have to go get food for the fish, which is actually really fun. I got involved in catching the little critters, not easy I tell you.

But with this current running the reefs to go were limited. Nerveless is always was fun.

Last year we had to miss Xmas in the San Blas as the Xmas winds were predicted and we had an appointment with Shelter Bay to get hauled out on the 8^th of January so we left before Xmas which was a good decision as the Xmas winds never stopped. Doing so we missed the New Year’s Eve party on Blue Sky with a musical jam session. I was a bit bummed then but then over joyed to hear they planned another one. So we left Runner in the Swimming Pool and headed to Green Island where the party was going to be next to the little island called Waisalidup. We were celebrating Xmas in 2000 on this little island we now call Xmas island.

We had perfect sailing conditions and sailed off the anchorage through the pool and out in the bay when we tacked it was perfect to hoist the spinnaker. What a rare thing to fly. Normally when we fly the spinnaker it is full for about 5 minutes then either wind blows straight down or changes direction. Nothing will stop us this time, the conditions are too perfect. POPPP!!!!! Sid did not see what was happening the bimini was in the way but I saw the shoot come sailing down and dousing into the water. After an adrenaline rush induced running around, the spinnaker was back up within 8 minutes up and flying again (the shackle let loose because of none use).

When we arrived we anchored off Green Island and wow we don’t remember that this was a rolly anchorage when we were here in 2000. But then I don’t think we had the Xmas winds as bad as this year. We spent two nights rolling around as we started to leave our windless (to pull the anchor) up would not work. Sid had to go through the whole system to finally find a wire that was attached to the up and down button was rotted out as in turned black and quit working. We re-anchored next to Waisalidup which was a lot calmer. We were shocked to see that Waisalidup now is half the size it was in 2000. The beach which was on the East side is now on the West side, amazing what current and waves can do. It was a little disturbing to see as well when one boat load after another off loaded tourists at least 40 of them but they only spent a couple of hours, guess they deserve to see this beautiful place too.

Green Island

Waislidup Xmas Island

The jam session on Blue Sky was fun and the food wonderful. Everybody brought something to share. We had 3 guitar players Bris his charter guest and myself, Si Bella brought his drums, Mike on Mermaid played blues harmonica and myself the chromatic. 

Everybody else played all the noise maker that were placed on the table. It was really a great evening. We had two hours to spare till the New Year when the party broke up so everybody could celebrate on their own boat (didn’t make sense to me). 3 charter boats had a bonfire party on Waisalidup so most of us went there. Sid hit the bed 1 minute after arriving on Paradise, the Rum Monster had sung him a lullaby song. I was at first contemplating to go and join the party on the island, 3 things I thought of: 1. what if I had a motor problem and drifting out to sea (I usually don’t worry about that but it was a pitch dark night). 2. What if Sid wakes up and I am not onboard, he may think I had fallen over board (of course he would have looked if dinghy was there). 3. Just as I was going to attempt to leave it started drizzling, so I stayed. Guess the 3 thoughts really meant, I would have liked to go but too lazy to get my butt in the dinghy and doing it. Instead I poured myself a glass of champagne, grabbed our blow conch and my Navajo Indian Flute and sat on deck and listened to the frolicking of the island party. At midnight I blew the horn a few times then played the Good morning praise Navajo song while Wha’tsApping with Anita who still had 2 hours to wait for her New Year’s Eve. Thanks Anita for celebrating with me. I had fun.

Don’t know what we did but a day later everybody pulled anchor and left, guess it’s time for the weekly shower. While there I noticed that when I rolled my right eye from left to right and back I could see on either side a flash. That can’t be good. I looked it up on the internet and it tells you to ASAP see an eye doctor. Well it was the holidays and Dr. offices were closed until the 2^nd. So when I called the receptionist on the second and I told her about the flashes she told me the doctor will not be back until the 4^th but gave me a 9 am appointment. So I had a chance to do the San Blas to Panama Trip by water and land taxi for the first time.

It’s actually much easier than I had thought. All the cruisers have phone numbers for these taxi guys, you call them tell them which anchorage you are in and with today's What’sApp everybody is on, you send them a photo of your boat so that they will know what to look for. We at first were going to go to Carti but were told the anchorage there is not very good, so we decided it was best from the East Lemmons. The taxi ride was 25 minutes to Carti and cost $25. There I had to wait about 20 minutes for my Taxi to arrive and since I told the driver I get carsick on very windy roads I got to sit in the front seat. The road from Panama City to Carti can only, or it is suggested to be driven in a 4x4 vehicle. Wow, that road is curvier than any mountain road in Switzerland. I thoroughly enjoyed the ride and was sooooo tempted to beg the driver to let me drive, it is such a cool road. Where’s a motorcycle when you need one. 

Unfortunately Photo don't do justice to steep roads

The drive went through jungle and over mountains up and down and round and round, it was awesome. 1 ½ hours later we arrived in Panama City. Since Ida was working in Panama City that day and following say we met after she got off work and I spent the night at her house. Plan was to spend the night in town after my doctor appointment but Ida insisted I needed to spend another night at her house, so I did. Last night I spent in Panama City at Deb’s Place also known as the Penthouse. Deb is an ex cruiser who is renting a Penthouse on the 21^st floor in down town Panama City. She rents out rooms and dorm beds very reasonable. Best thing for cruisers she has two big refrigerators one for herself and one just for visitors so we can provision and keep things cold or frozen. Great deal. It’s like a home away from home.

View from the Penthouse

 

By the way doctor visit went well, I am just getting wiser as with age even the eyes shrivel up. I have detached Vitreous lining which the flashes will go away anywhere from 2 weeks to 6 months. No glaucoma or cataract either I am just getting old LOL.

The taxi pick up is at 5:30 and I was the first passenger he picked up and got the front seat again. I got a tour of the city while picking up 6 more people. The great thing about this going back to Carti is the taxi will stop at the last Rey store, perfect to buy the veggies and fruits then, which I did. I was told that if you have excessive luggage or bags the taxi will charge 10 bucks extra (by the way the taxi is also $25). Neither the boat or land taxi charged me extra.

If you wonder how we restock food onboard, there are several boats loaded with fruits and veggies that come out to the anchorages. Some even have rum and beer and some you can call to put an order in. Not a bad deal. But you can’t rely on them either, they sometimes do not show up for weeks.

Everything including myself arrived dry back on Paradise and the following morning we lifted anchor and headed back to the Pool.

It was a happy reunion and our daily routine was Sid going to the island with Reg burning trash and clearing off the island and when they returned Debi and I went hunting for food for her aquarium fish.

Sid also was working on the new Wind Generator that is just not putting out more than 1 Amp, so not sure what the deal is. Sid checked all the wiring and exchanged the blades to the blue ones we had for the old wind generator, but still same input. To get up to the wind generator is a little bit of a challenge, while in the marina we go get a ladder and voila. But out here where do you get a ladder? Wait a minute!!!! Our boarding ladder. A little engineering and up to the wind generator he went. 

Piece of cake except for the parts and pieces that fall in the water. He managed to only drop 5 things but good thing is, we had only 2 feet of water under the keel so a quick dive and all was retrieved. I still smell wood burning coming from Sid trying to figure out what’s wrong. Wind generator still only giving us 1 amp.

After all these years on the boat, we both said the forward hatch should open forward and not to the back so Sid changed that too, wow what a difference.

The wind had settled quite a bit and the pool was nice and calm and not too much of a current. It was a fast week and a half with lots of fun, but heavy winds were predicted again and since Sid cleaned the rigging, while I was in Panama City, which involves many hours dangling up the mast, we decided we did not want that salt spray all over again. Besides we still needed to rinse the spinnaker of the salt water. Runner was soon departing to Puerto Lindo as well so we said “See ya later”, which we will in March and we headed to Nargana.

Nargana is one of the biggest towns in San Blas, well, village can’t really call it a town as small as it is.  There is a small walking bridge that connects to the neighboring island Corazon de Jesus.  There is an airstrip across the islands on the mainland but it is so badly kept up the pilots of Air Perlas are refusing to fly here or Porvenir until the run way is fixed. We all know that will not happen. The flight costs 80 bucks one way while the lancha costs 15 to Carti. While here we did see a few planes land an take off to unload charter boat guests, gut the planes were chartered private planes.

Nargana has long lost its Kuna traditions. The woman no longer wear the traditional Mola outfits and no longer make the beautiful Molas nor selling them. We actually got a good chuckle when we saw an about 35/40 year old woman walk down the dirt path with super high heels and a skin tight dress in leopard colors. She could barely walk on the unstable ground and she worked at the government house. Nargana used to have many stores to buy veggies you could find different produce in any corner of the island for different prices too. Now there is only one fresh convenient stores with veggies whenever the boat comes in, but as soon as you are a foreigner the price goes up. Another one with just fresh produce also only when the boat comes in is on Corazon de Jesus and is also the bakery. Bread is not ready until later afternoon. You better go shopping early as the fresh veggies disappear fast by all the locals and all the charter boats coming in just to provision. I realized that I can get better produce from the veggie boats that come into the anchorages. I did buy a huge chicken and roasted it in the oven with lots of garlic and rosemary and had Edie and Michael on Panda over for dinner.

We’ve known them for the whole 4 years we’ve been in Panama now but always it was just a high and bye. We finally had some quality time with them and realized we had met before. I always thought he looked familiar now I know for sure he does. We had met at one of the Potlucks at Bahia Redonda way back in Venezuela. We usually don’t lurk on the radio, but when Michael is talking with someone we do lurk. He is such a wealth of information no matter what they talk about, you can only learn from listening in. Plus he gives really good weather prognosis on the morning Net.

Weather finally calmed down but we only had a two day window until the next blow of 25 knots so we threw the spinnaker into the dinghy and headed up the river. The river has changed over the years and we did not find the sand bank we had a picnic on and swam in 2000. But when the river narrowed and several ulus (kuna dugouts) with Kuna guys filling up their water jugs and buckets, washing laundry and taking a bath, we knew that is as far as we can go. I didn’t think of bringing my camera, bummer as the spinnaker looked so pretty in the water with all the colors. Sid did some laundry and we both took a good bath. The water was refreshingly cool and the bottom was mixed with some algae. We probably will have some algae flakes snowing out of the spinnaker next time we use it.

Plan was to leave the following morning to Elefante in the West Lemmons to do laundry. But found out that in heavy winds its uncomfortable there so we decided to stay as Sid wanted to clean the hull. Nargana is not a bad place to be, not a favorite but now and then it’s good to be in civilization except we are practically under the Digicel Cellphone tower and have the worst data service. Almost impossible to get on the Internet so if I manage to post this tonight (heard it’s free at night so I will not use up all my data)(That was wishful thinking on Feb 2nd.What's today the 20th Hallellujaaaa I finally have Internet but very, very slow). Digicel, Mas Movil, Movistar and Claro have all similar deals. Daily/weekly/monthly rates for data on your phone or dongle for computer. The months costs 14.99 and depending on server you get anywhere from 1 to 3 Gigs. If you are in Shelter Bay Marina don’t pay the $40 dollars a months for the Marina’s Internet service that doesn’t work, buy a Movistar Sim card and pay your 14.99 a month which provides a super-fast Internet. Not just that when you add the 15 dollar card you get triple the minutes so after you pay your 14.99 you have lots of free minutes to make phone calls. In the rest of the country I prefer Mas Mobil. It will work in the Western Part of the San Blas and much better than Digi does but going further East it’s just Digicel. They must have made a deal that no other company can service out here, bummer.

Anyway, here we are in the San Blas enjoying the freedom of our cruising life style. We are as happy as popcorn farts in a wind storm.

Hope you folks out there with the Blizzards are staying safe and warm while we fight the humidity and heat LOL. 

AHHHHH LIFE IS GOOD!!