It wasn’t
but could have been a little Bonvoyage Party at our last evening at Shelter Bay
before leaving for the San Blas. Pretty much everybody including people never
attending the Sunday evening BBQ showed up. It was a fun evening and as always
the food was fabulous. This has been an incredible fun group. Don’t get me
wrong we always have fun no matter where we go but this group was had the most
comradery we’ve ever were privilege to enjoy. We truly will miss this group. And
as always when meeting new friends they all sail into different directions, but
we never say goodbye we always say “C ya later”.
We left early
morning for Portobelo and motored away as there was not a breath of air for the
entire 20 miles. Not a bad thing at all as we could test our newly repaired engine which turned out OK “good job done
Sid”. I would not doubt that anyway,
best mechanic to have on any boat. Just as we had settle in the wind started to
come up and of course not out of the direction we like it to come from but out
of the feared west which is right into the bay. It was a bit lumpy but not
intolerable. We decided before the chop got worse to drop all our stuff off at
our storage unit so down came the dinghy and down came the outboard including
Sid starting the outboard and ooh, ooooh…… No water was spewing out, not a good
thing. I can’t tell you how many time we hoisted the outboard up and down and
Sid worked diligently on it each time taking it all apart but no joy. Down came
our 2 hps little outboard and it started right away. We were barely 50 feet
away from the boat it gave up the ghost. Luckily the wind blew us back to the
boat with some help of maneuvering the dinghy with our hands. Sid got it
started again but same thing it would and would not keep running, probably
dirty fuel. We were desperate to get our stuff to the storage as we don’t trust
Portobelo in westerlies, so we called Anita and told her of our dilemma asking
if Dario next door could pick us up head across to our shed, drop off and pick
up stuff, then head back to her house to finally get together with her (we had
planned to see her anyway as we haven’t seen her in months as she went home to
Arizona). About an hour later we sat on her patio sipping on a cocktail
catching up. Unfortunately it was already getting dark so she let us have her
dinghy overnight, as I was leaving early for a trip into Panama City with
Melania to Provision. Sid dropped me off early and headed back to the boat to
work on both outboards. Later on that day he called me with good and bad news,
good one was little outboard was working, big one did not.
I had a
great time shopping in town with Melania and went to all the places she usually
doesn’t get to go shopping. We came home rather late and it was dark already at
7pm. It was too late to head over to Anita’s and she understood that with the
weather condition we were not going to stay another day. The weather forecast
didn’t look good either, some 30 knots wind out of the S was predicted, that
would make this anchorage downright dangerous, so we left at sun up after
another rolly night.
We had a nice sail to Linton and arrived just before heavy
rain hit. As soon as we realized our outboard needed to be brought in to the
Mechanic at Panamarina, plus bad weather forecast, I had called Linton Bay marina to reserve a
slip. “They are all full”, Adam said and gave us the worst slip in the marina
that if we get wind waves will be on our beam. He claimed he had no other
slips, but later on that week we found out there was some others. Anyway, we
settled in then took a dinghy ride to Panama Marina to bring our ailing dinghy
to the dinghy doctor. Pelota the mechanic told us he would have a look at the
motor the following day which was Friday. So we headed home still hoping we
would make it to the San Blas before Thanksgiving and the bad weather.
Of course
lunch was on the plan as well, but unfortunately by the time we got there with
the little outboard the restaurant was closed for lunch, but they were nice
enough to make us two orders of fries.
As we
ordered another beer, we watched this nasty black cloud approaching and
stupidly thought we could out run it, sure we will make it home before it hits,
not considering our just 2 hp putt putt engine. We were barely away from the
dock the dark cloud now really ugly looking was approaching faster than we wanted.
AND of course the putt putt machine sputtered stopped, sputtered and stopped
and again sputtered and stopped while now heavier wind threatened to blow us
towards the mangroves. Not having oars in the dinghy, yep a stupid thing, we
paddled with our hands to the guard shack in the middle of the mooring field,
climbed on it not a second too soon before pelting rain came sideways, we had
to stand on the one foot wide ledge on the leeward side of the shed to keep
dry.
The wind was howling, I kept looking towards the mangroves we would have
been stuck in, just imagining all the spiders and bugs, yuck. Some twenty
minutes later we hopped back into our dinghy an amazingly it didn’t sputter
anymore, guess that little thing did not like the weather either.
Our
ex-neighbors at Shelter Bay Anita and Ramon were in the marina as well. They
had left Shelter Bay 2 weeks prior and needed to head to Sabzurro the very
southern part of the San Blas to pick up a dinghy engine they had loaned to a
friend, refusing to bring it back, nice friend. They were going to sail from
there directly to Miami but on their way they came into the ITCZ which was so
static they were hit by lightning forcing them to return to a marina. We had a
fun dinner with them and when the engine was ready on Saturday they came with
us to Panamarina as they had never been there. Anita just loved the drive
through the mangrove and lunch as always was wonderful.
Even though
we now had the engine back the weather window was closed for us to head to the
San Blas as a very slow moving system about 100 miles north of us just sat there
gaining more and more strength bringing us 30 knots of wind out of the south.
NOAA at this point had it as Invest L90 and predicted it to head west and
eventually closer to Nicaragua turning into a Tropical Storm or Hurricane. What
I thought was amazing they kept saying it was 300 miles off the Nicaraguan
shore, HELLOOOOO it is only 100 miles North of Panama, what are we chopped
liver?!!!!! The wind kept accelerating and before we knew it was now a tropical
storm named Otto but was taking a loop south easterly, not the north westerly
like NOAA had predicted, it was heading towards us, yikes. Then Otto became a
full blown Category 1 Hurricane. By that time it was too late to take my new
sun awing down, but I have to say in the 50 knots of winds we encountered it
did pretty darn well. Invest L90 did not
take the predicted 48 hours to be a Tropical Storm but went within 24 hours
from L90 to Tropical storm to Hurricane Otto. It’s kinda late in the season for
that and this system is way too far South or is it. Nope occasionally in
November a hurricane can build in the southwestern Caribbean as Otto did. 4
days after we had arrived in Linton we had the eye of Hurricane Otto 45 miles
from us, yikes. All the predicted weather we had went through the roof. The
wind was gusting and rain pelting sideways, it blew so hard the rain showers
blew by fast. While walking the dock it stung our faces. As I earlier said we
had the worst slip in the marina and with the now 50 knots of winds we were
rolling and getting slammed into the dock (a couple weeks later Sid noticed
that our portside bow chock broke).
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| The start of it |
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| Otto brought beautiful rainbows |
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| And filled up the dinghy. Laundry water |
Good thing was the wind came out of the
South so we did not get waves and wind waves out of the N which would have been
devastating for this marina and us of course. Another good thing was our
neighbor a 50 foot M Catamaran kept the full force of the wind from us, we had
45 knots. Also good thing put our flopper stopper out and added in all 6 lines
to position our boat between the catamaran and off the dock. We already had 2
nights of 30 knots of wind now Otto brought his wrath for two more nights,
don’t think anybody slept in the marina. And the anchorage was a mess, boats
dragging into each other others drifting ashore or onto a reef, fortunately no
boat was lost here. Occasionally we heard VHF skips from Portobelo, mainly
Captain Jack. All hell broke loose there, every boat anchored or on mooring
broke loose. Captain Jack had re-anchored his boat already for the 5th
time when he broke loose again. Heard him apologetically tell one other cruiser
in distress how sorry he was not able to help him this time, he just broke
loose again. We were fearing the worst for them and were so thankful, even in
the shittiest slip, to be safe in the marina. The last dock of A dock with a
big 70 footer “Albatross” the finger dock including boat threatened to break
loose, so did the last boast on B dock. The marina crew were busy all day, it
was a change for us to finally see marina people work. They did a great job but
came night time we were on our own. Poor Roman and Patsy had both their anchors
in Panama City for re-galvanization when their mooring broke. Another boat gave
them his spar anchor but needless to say they limped into the marina the
following morning on day two, we helped them getting to the fuel dock. They
were very tired but happy and knew how lucky they were.
The after
math was not so bad here, except all the drift wood and floating broken boat
parts collecting in the marina. The crew cleaned it up in no time. But the
devastating photos that bombarded my Whatsapp from Portobel was heartbreaking.
All but 3 boats were on land, on the rocks, thrown into the fort wall or sunk.
Thomas lucked out he was pushed across the sand bar into the river where he
found a new home. His catamaran that he used as fiberglass workshop, followed
him and is anchored next to him. Shall be interesting to see if he ever makes
it out of the river. Most boats were lost a few made it back into the water and
some are still hoping they will. Portobelo is known for a lot of derelict boats
and it sounds brutal but Mother Nature cleaned up the area.
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| Wide spread floodings |
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| Same day turned into Hurrcane Otto |
We waited a
few more days and dried out what needed to be dried. I used the water that had
accumulated in the dinghy to do laundry. As after every rain the water at the
marina goes out, doesn’t sound right does it. Of course Otto brought
devastation country wide, with mainly heavy flooding and trees down. Just
between the marina and the little town 5 trees were down. Power outage was felt
all the way to Sabanits and Colon. In Panama City even 3 houses went down the
hill. We had no water, power or phone service for the remaining 5 days and we
heard after we had left it was not for another 4 or 5 days before power came
back. I didn’t have cell phone service until we arrived in the East Lemons in
the Sand Blas. We headed straight to the Hollandes Keys with a Turkey in tow
which we had 2 Thursdays after thanksgiving cooked by Deb on Runner.
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| Yes I like the necks, wings and rear end |
During Otto
and no phone service we had no idea how San Blas faired other than the news
stating the San Blas had been evacuated. We were worried sick for all our
friends there and felt lucky we were in the marina, not knowing they were all
fine, had 30 knots of wind, cellphone service and all. But they of course were
worried about us as they knew we had gotten the worst of Otto. We were in the
worst place.
So here we
are again in the beautiful San Blas anchored next to Runner enjoying wonderful
dinners together. The boys working on the island during the day and the girls
going snorkeling to get food or new fish for Debi’s fish tanks.
The weather
was nice and calm, with occasional rain, mainly during the night. Sirena we had
met in Shelter Bay arrived as well and we had some fun evening on their boat.
My digicel
data service did and did not work, couldn’t load money on it no matter what we
tried. Even Reg had the sim card for a few days but noting. Sharda on Morgan
invited me to come on their boat as they have good signal. Nothing there either
so we finally figured out that both old and new sim card must be expired and
sure enough. Sharda had an extra sim so I have data now. Thank you Shards.
Amazing if
you don’t use your phone there is an expiration on the money you have on it as
well, Sid just lost all his money on it. Mine has expired because I had no
money on it for more than 6 months.
Here is a
little video of Debi and my snorkeling trip, each day we find something
special:
After 2
weeks in the pool it was time to head to a better internet connection as we are
expecting guests on the 18th of December. Paradise is sparkly and
shiny and decorated the most for Xmas. In a few days into the new anchorage the
Swiss Christmas Cookie bakery was in full swing. What a challenge that was.
Manuela accidentally left the eggs which were stored in a bowl on the table and
well, the eggs got a sun burn. Every egg she opened was stuck to the shell and
many, many were rotten. A friendly neighbor boat gave her 6 fresh eggs. You
heard me say Swiss Christmas Cookies as in made in cold Switzerland. This is
hot and tropical Panama…… Well in order to make Swiss Christmas cookies in a
tropical and humid place should be done in a well air-conditioned kitchen. The
cookies came out oh well a little different looking than they should but still
taste the way they should. But I think this was my first and last time making
cookies in this humidity.
On the 16th Manuela took the water taxi to
Carti and from there a taxi to Panama City to do some Xmas shopping and to
visit two of her friends Ida and Melani. Also to pick up the hammocks we forgot
in our storage. Then on the 18th Rita, hubby Miguel and son Ivano
from Malaga Spain will arrive for a fun 3 week vacation in and on Paradise
which will be in our next Blog
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