During our stay in Nargana we were again visited by
dolphins. It just amazes me that they like it in the muddy waters of Nargana,
must be a great feeding ground.
It took a few weeks to feel normal again after the virus I
contracted in Panama City. But while I was at the clinic I found the following
interesting info about the difference between Dengue, Zika and Chikunguia.
photo
It is slow season most snowbirds have flown home and are
enjoying their family and especially grandchildren. Slow season means not much
on veggies to provision so we returned to the Holandes hoping Ortiz the veggie
boat will come buy any day now with fresh veggies.
One sunset as we were sitting on the bow, a pretty good
current raced by the boat and I noticed a piece of wood floating sideways to
the current towards us, my mind went odd, and I pointed at it and was just
going to say: “look at this log moving against the current” but instead, all
that escaped out of my mouth was: “Crocodile” as the tree trunk’s tail started
moving back and forth. It came right under the bow, below from us, starring at
us, yikes!!.
I wondered who it was eyeballing me, fatty, or toothpick
Sid. Sid raced down below to get the camera and as he left the crocodile headed
up current, guess he was not interested in fatty, sigh. I texted a friend in
Shelter Bay about the croc and she texted back and wanted know if I was still
going swimming here. I texted back: sure but only with Debi, she is much, much
shorter than me. LOL
This year’s weather was definitely different from last
year’s. It started a couple months early in March, where with the first
thunderstorm on March 21st 3 boats were hit by lightning. But I have
to say the only 3 boats that we know of being hit all rainy season, but then
again this year there were only 3 to 5 cruising boats that spent hurricane
season in the San Blas, the rest opted to go home because of the frequent
lightning hits. We didn’t get much rain all summer and best never had a
chocosana which is a very strong wind up to 50 knots from the SE and hits
around 3 am in the morning and can last for hours. However we did have a cloud
approaching from the NE showing some rain, no lightning didn’t look too bad at
first but the cloud got darker and a pretty good foot was building, not much
later Sid said: “temperature just dropped”, followed by, “hold on here it
comes”. I was in the galley and man oh mighty the boat was healing to port and
everything that was on the galley counter flew towards me. I tried to catch
whatever started to bombard me but when I heard Sid scream turn the Autopilot on
(which is connected with the wind indicator) and the big glass gar from the
blender started flying towards me, decided it was not worth getting hurt by
that heavy glass pitcher and sped to the nav station and turned the autopilot
on instead. I did here that pitcher repeatedly bounce on the teak floor but to
my amazement I never heard it shatter, didn’t even chip, wow.
We were hit by an instant 45 knot wind which got every boat
by surprise and knocked whatever off shelfs and counters that was not nailed
down. The wind lasted for a while and just as a precaution we had the engine
running. Never know.
A few week later we did get another one of those freak
squalls but it did not surprise us like this one did.
Another sunset sitting on the bow, we were so involved in a
conversation we almost did not see the big turtle sitting on the ocean floor, rubbing
its shell on our anchor chain. Wow, what a beautiful animal and after it was
done it popped up right under our bow and slowly swam away. That was definitely
a more pleasant visit than the big toothed mouth of the croc.
One evening it seemed like the whole horizon was engulfed
in fireworks. There must have been 6 systems all sparkling a different way. One
cloud exploded into fireworks like continuous lightning, the one next to it
with tree branch lightning, the third one just a big cloud lighting up with one
bolt after another escaping and the other ones were just flickering on and off.
It was an incredible show and we watched it into the wee hours.
Debi and Regi’s family from Mexico City came for a visit. It
was a great reunion and we had a lot of fun. Had lunch on the island, but Reg
had lobster and as only the head of the fish with nasty teeth was left Deb and
I looked at each other with a huge grin on our faces, took a photo and sent it
to our dentist friend Ida that we found a new patient for her.
We had about 2 weeks left in the San Blas of course Debi
and I made the best out of it. We knew it was going to be very hard to say “C
ya later”. Since Deb still had the kayaks in the water from her family’s stay
we went snorkeling with one of her kayaks which enabled us to snorkel much
further towing it behind. I turned into quite a lion fish hunter, plus lobster
and conch catcher. Sure going to miss my snorkels with Debi.
The boys worked every day clearing the island it was
amazing to see how much further the island has cleared.
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| Sid's dragon |
One evening at 9 Deb called on the radio that she is coming
over to pick me up as it was such a nice full moon out. I grabbed a bottle of
wine and hopped in her dinghy. We both planted ourselves onto the dinghy floor
and drifted around the anchorage enjoying the bottle of wine and the beautiful
moon. I asked her why haven’t we done this before. Her answer was, well you
weren’t leaving, sob.
Knowing both Deb and Reg love Fondue I took my last 4 packs
out and we enjoyed a last dinner on Paradise.
On our last day in the Holandes
Debi gave us a last haircut and spoiled us for a wonderful dinner on Runner.
Then the dreaded day and the heart wrenching goodbye. We
cried half way to the East Lemons, where we spent a few days.
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| Bye Deb |
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| Sure going to miss this beautiful anchorage |
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| Kunas coming by the boat in their Ulus |
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| The beautiful islands |
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| A hitchhiker |
This anchorage
now is over crowded with charter boats. Sad to see how the San Blas is being
taken over by them and also the growing tourism that the Kunas themselves bring
out on a daily basis. We said goodbye to all our friends here and also Siabibi
who had a few tears in her eyes as well.
Here we always see the most beautiful sunsets:
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| cocktail at Red Roof Inn |
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| How do you use this phone |
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| Sid waiting for me while saying goodbye to Siabibi |
Our last stop was Chichime for a night
as it is an easy getaway in the early morning when it is still dark. We had
mixed feelings seeing the beautiful San Blas islands slowly disappear behind us
and blend into the horizon. Some day we will head back to this little Paradise.
A beautiful sunrise greeted us with a wind coming offshore
first at 15 knots then as we closed in on Isla Grande slowing down. It was a
calm and pleasant motor sail and we made it in record time to Puerto Lindo.
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| Entrance at Isla Grande |
In the almost one year we had left Puerto Lindo it had
changed a lot. Seemed like all the derelict boats from Portobelo were here
putting in moorings, there is not much room to anchor anymore. The marina was
full and the club house still looked the same as when we had left, still the
ugly trailer showers in the marina and it’s still a muddy parking lot.
And the bad stories rolled. The Linton Bay Marina is still
far from being a functioning marina. They charge now $3 per day/$30 per month
to use the dinghy dock which includes the cold showers in their mobile
bathrooms, garbage disposal and free Wifi. Well not too bad you think at first
until you get connected on the free WiFi then realizing you can connect but
can’t get to any site nor your email as it is, it’s such a weak signal. WiFi
here is worthless.
We surprised Sarah for Friday night Pizza night. She was so
excited she forgot to flower the pizza pan and we ended up chiseling it off the
pan. Sid’s pizza the whole topping came off so she just made another dough with
the already cooked topping on it, so he had twice baked pizza which actually
turned out pretty good.
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| Sarah |
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| Our last mangrove trip to Panamarina |
Her granddaughter listened to my advice to lay down and
sleep as she started to feel sick and it worked for her, she left the feeding
of the fish to her aunt with boyfriend. They were happy, happy to arrive in
Portobelo. Ida was the only one that wasn’t affected by the rough seas. After
we had anchored and everybody’s stomach has settled Ida brought lunch out. It
was sooo much food and we ate for hours. She made the best Ribs I have ever had
and she left some left overs behind yeah. It was overcast but we had a
wonderful time and ended up having a couple drinks at El Castillo before they
hit the road. They had left one car at the Castillo and the other at Linton so
they had to drive back to Linton to get the car.
The next few days we spent with Anita, although her mooring
pulled under water by too much stuff growing on the line we stayed at anchor in
front of the Otro Lado Resort. It’s always nice here when Anita is here,
otherwise we probably would not stop other than going to our storage. We did
move some stuff out of it, but Anita wanted to have us come back and as she
wanted to help us to get the rest to Shelter Bay as we were going to rent a
shed there.
1st of September it was time to head to the
Shelter Bay Marina as we had a slip waiting for us. Plan was to spend a couple
months in the marina including to haul and change the cutlass bearing before
transiting the canal back to the Pacific side end/begin of Dec/Jan. Yes
Paradise is going to be on the move again, although she still hasn’t lost her turtle
travel speed so she will take us to where we can find another exotic place to
work on the boat.
Remember the botfly Sid had a year back in Puerto Lindo.
This time it was my turn. I was bit below my armpit next to my right boob. At
first I thought a mole was growing but then it looked too familiar and indeed
it started getting bigger and bigger. I tried all the remedies to kill it with
putting Vaseline over it, bacon, blue tape that ripped my skin around off. By
now that thing was pretty big so I went to the Portobelo clinic to cut it out.
Doctor didn’t even look at it but said bot flies don’t exist? They don’t?!!!
It’s plastered over the whole Internet that they are common in Central America,
hello!!! Instead he prescribed antibiotics to take. Told him I’m not going to
take it. Why not? Told him you doctors in Latin America prescribe antibiotic
too freely besides you didn’t even look at it. Well the visit cost me $1 so not
too much lost except the long waiting time. Guess can’t complain for not
looking at it, 1$ must be for the prescription.
Knowing the 4 Alto doctor that treated Sid for the same
didn’t know about it either so guessed I was stuck with it. After 6 weeks
trying to mess with it and lure it out I finally went to see my dermatologist.
That was very funny as when he cut an inch long cut he jumped back and
screamed: OMG it’s wiggling iiiiiii, it’s wiggling!!! (he is alternate life
style so his it’s wiggly dance was really cute and too funny, we both had a
good chuckle). He called his male secretary in to take photos, watching his face
taking photos of the wiggling thing while staying as far a way as he could and
making his arms as long as he could he took some picture an film. So when that
was over the doctor cautiously closed in on the wiggling thing and tried to
pull it out, but all that came out of his mouth was: “oh it’s fat!” to which I
replied “are you calling me fat?!” another outburst of laughter. He sent a swap
to the lab to see what kind of bacteria the puss was. That was pretty funny as
well as 4 days later the results came in. The labs here send it to the patient
and doctor via email. The bacteria had a strange name so of course I googled
it. It described it as a bacteria in and around female and male private parts
and intestines. OMG under my arm? I sent my doctor a text questioning it. His
responds was hahahahaha. In the mean time I learned form a doctor friend that
it is a good bacteria. Gosh for a moment there I was worried a penis or vagina
growing out of my armpit.
Middle of September Ida had another Diva Event at her
house, it was called Diva Fun just a casual affair. As I haven’t seen Ida for a
while Carol and I went 3 days before the event to catch up and spoiled Ida with
our gourmet cooking. Anita and Melania found out we were there already and
wanted to join so they showed up a day early. Same time all the others did the
same so the 2 day event turned into 3 days. Again lots yummy food, drinks, full
of fun and laughter and also relaxation time.
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| Learning to make sushi |
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| Dim Sum lunch |
A week later we took the bus to Portobelo to clear our
storage and spent the night at Anita’s. It was kinda weird being in Portobelo
without Paradise being there. But it was wonderful catching up with Anita.
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| Anita |
It
was amazing to see this ominous squall slowly sweeping across the bay towards
us. All we saw was a white wall approaching, incredibly dramatic. It rained so
hard we had to retreat inside and close the balcony door as the spray hit
everywhere. As always I cooked dinner which was enjoyed, Anita spoiled us with
some ice-cream and we chatted into the night. Early at 4 am I woke up to the
howler monkeys good morning concert. I snuck outside to listen to them. The sun
started to peak around the corner and showed off in an incredible sunrise
display. The birds started singing with the howlers still screaming of the top
of their lungs, making sure everybody knows another beautiful morning has
arrived. Every tree surrounding Anita’s house was full of howler’s with lots
and lots of cute little babies, it was so much fun watching them. An
unforgettable morning with the beautiful variety of bird songs, plus 4 falcons
playfully chasing each other from tree to tree, the beautiful sunrise, fish
jumping around Anita’s pier plus the howler monkeys.
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| View from Anita's house towards |
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| across towards the police station, El Castillo Restaurant and where our storage was |
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| And the Portobelo bay entrance |
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| Her patio |
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| cute little snail hiding from the rain |
For lunch we met with Jim and Melania, Pat and Jesse and
kids, plus Anita at the Castillo for lunch. I had developed what looked like
pink eye which is an epidemic in Panama at the moment. What did I tell you the
tropics hides many things, and as Debi always says: if it is out there Paradise
gets it. Luckily it wasn’t pink eye just a sty and with a hot chamomile tea bag
compress it was gone the following day. After lunch we loaded up Anita’s car
with all our junk and she drove us to Shelter Bay where all is stored now in a
really nice and relative cool storage.
You may remember while in town with Janet I bought a dinghy
which I was not able to bring to the San Blas so I made a down payment and they
stored it for us. One of the first things we did after arriving at Shelter Bay
was paying the rest for the dinghy and had it delivered to Shelter Bay. We were
amazed that they did so the very next day. Sid wasn’t ready to pump the dinghy
up yet as he wanted to add a protection strip on the keel plus adding a long
painter (line). To his surprise the protection strip was already in place,
great. And after he spliced the painter he pumped up the dinghy which was 2
days after it was delivered and OMG if that dinghy wasn’t damaged. But look for
yourself:
I called the guy that delivered it right away and he tried
to get out of it with: “well Sid didn’t pump it up right away” to which I
replied “that shouldn’t matter, it was brought damaged, besides I would have
not pumped it up either bringing it to the San Blas.” I believe in things
happen for a reason, like in not finding a transport to the San Blas, imagine
the pain in the butt it would have been to return it from there, plus how
costly it would have been. Of course it was a Holiday and the store was closed
for several days but the guy said we needed to come talk to them in the office.
We were worried that they would decline to replace the dinghy, anything here is
possible. We also bought chaps for the dinghy which the owner of the store said
they are not for the 10 foot ultralight but the regular 10 footer and should
fit, I had my doubts but bought it as I was ensured I could return it. Well
that didn’t even closely fit.
So we waited through the Jewish Holiday with that worry in
our mind. Once we were at the store they offered us a rebate of $200.—WHAAAA?!!!
No way. Well they tried but immediately said they will order a new one as they
had none at the store. So in that case I told them order the unpainted as we
wanted to buy in the first place but they had talked us into the painted and
they agreed. They also took the chaps back and ordered the one needed, home we
went thinking having to wait about 2 months. The following morning I received a
phone call that the replacement dinghy was 10 minutes away from the marina. In
deed 10 minutes later they rolled in with another painted dinghy. I questioned
him about it but he played dumb. Now the damaged dinghy you don’t want to know
what they did with that. Well OK I tell you, they brought it to the Chandlery
here in Shelter Bay with plan to fix it by bending and hammering it back then
selling it to unsuspecting future owners not knowing that the tube has been jeopardized.
BTW we after 3 months we are still waiting for the chaps.
After a year in the San Blas it feels nice to be in a
marina for a change. The constant not realizing concern about dragging, bad
squall hitting, other boats parking not anchoring on top of you etc. makes you
feel like a huge rock taken off your shoulder.
Sid dove right into projects. One of my favorites he
polished all my pots, pans and stainless steel coffee/cocktail mugs, what a
guy.
At the restaurant every Saturday they have an open mic
evening I joined. A lot of fun and some incredibly good musicians. Robert OMG
he is just amazing what he can do with his guitar. Steph and Stu, she plays the
violin, Stu masters the guitar, banjo and traveling guitar. The only time you
see Dock Assistant Frank smile is with his bass guitar in his hand. Collin a
young kid of 14 an amazing blues player. Phil just started to play ukulele 4
months ago. And myself guitar and harmonica, plus whoever stops by and knows how to play an instrument is invited. It is
huge fun and a great challenge to learn more and more songs. I am the proud
owner of a microphone and stand plus an amp, unfortunately only has one input
but Sid is getting me a Street cube amp that runs on both regular power and
batteries. Hey maybe someday you see me playing at a street corner with my
guitar case open to collect money and the Boatbumms we are maybe I have Sid
sitting there instead with a hat in his hand to collect money as well.
On October 13th we celebrated Sid and Chris on
Moody Fin’s BD. Lucky guys their BD fell on a potluck. It was huge fun and I think
both boys enjoyed the surprise party, cake, ice-cream and wonderful appetizers.
Too funny: while watching a movie, every few minutes an “Eau
de Fart” odor was brushing my nose,with an interval of each about 2 to 3
minutes apart, so I finally told Sid to stop farting that his farts were super
gross. After my 3rd complaint Sid said very stern: “I am not
farting” but the Eau de Fart odor kept circulating and I knew for sure it was
not me. Next morning I started sizzling some bacon for breakfast and reached
for the egg carton which is stored above where I sit, OMG at least 5 of the 12
eggs were busted. So the Moral of this story is: if your husband says he is not
farting, go check the eggs. No not his but the chicken eggs. I owed him a big
apology. BTW the eggs were only 10 days old. And he finally did admit he let a
few go as well.
Here a diver's rule:
We rented a car for a couple of days to run some errands
and promised Silvester to drive them to Colon early in the morning to catch the
bus to Panama City before returning the car. Day before Ida called that Ultra
also here in the marina needed to go in early to see her at her dental office
if they could ride in with us. We did squeeze 6 people into the car for the 30
minute drive into Colon. When we saw Ida she asked us to come home with her
that night as she was off the following day. Told her we had too many things to
do, but Ida does not take a NO easily. After we returned the car, did some
shopping and sat in the bus waiting to return to Shelter Bay, Ida rings but it
was Joanne on the phone saying that Ida said we can’t go home but need to come
home to her house instead with Ultra and Ultra was only going if we were. So
the NO turned into a YES, mind you neither of us had any change of cloth,
toothbrushes, phone chargers etc, plus Ida was working till 4 pm. The four of
us hit all the stores and Sid found some new cloths as all his cloths are
falling off him. I haven’t found anything in years as well. Bought toothbrushes
and paste and we were ready for an in-prompt-to gathering at Ida’s.
At 4 pm she picked us all up at the mall and we drove to
her beautiful property. Her property is surrounded by jungle full of bird life
and she opens her house to the Smithsonian to conduct their studies of birds. The
group this time was studying migrating birds. It was a very interesting evening
talking to all these guys and dinner was wonderful, so was the pool, it was
fun.
Can you believe it on October 25, 20 years ago we cut the
lines in front of our Yacht Club PMYC in Marina del Rey and have been cruising
since. Seems just like yesterday, amazing. For the festivities I organized a
pig roast potluck. We bring the pig and everybody else a dish to share. It was
a fun party but oh my gosh, we did not count on 14 kids being there plus the
parents only bringing a small dish not even enough to feed their own family,
people dug into the pork like it’s the last in this world. Out of the 45 that
had signed up an extra 25 showed up, no dish to share, so we did run out of
everything and what little scrap was left of the pig that was gone as well. 10
of our guest didn’t get any pork. Luckily I had asked the chef to cut me a butt
cheek and also the filet so I gave that to them. We watched people walk away
with big Ziploc bags full of piggy. All that was left for us was a greasy
cutting board with a few tiny crumbs, oh and the kids ate all the desserts.
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| Sid and Bill |
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| with Joanne |
But we all had a great time and that is the main thing. The
palapa was nicely decorated with palm fronds and wild flowers and 18 tikky
torches surrounding the palapa, it was very festive.
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| Getting wild flowers in the jungle with JoAnne |
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| My fun Tampon game |
We almost cried when 2 days later we saw the dishes of the
marina cats overfilled with 1 inch cubes of juicy pork bites.
There are quite a few crocs here in the marina and now and
then you think a stick floating by the boat is just that until you see the tail
wave and eyes staring at you. One boat saw a croc as big as 4 meters they said.
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| Catamaran Europa took these photos, this is how close the croc hangs out |
Bill and Joanne on Ultra were hired by the marina to be the
entertainment comitty and that they are. They do an incredible job to keep all
the boaters from doing their boat work. Every night something is going on and
always a lot of fun. Tuesday is Wings and Karaoke night I organize. I tought the
kitchen to make Buffalo Wings Manuela style and it’s a huge hit. There are now
locals driving to the Dock Restaurant on Sundays for the Buffalo Wings.
One Sunday I organized a bloody Mary morning at the palapa,
it was a good turnout but I made so much bloody mary we froze it and used it at
another gathering.
And Halloween was super fun:
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| Sid and I found the coolest Halloween store in Panama City |
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| Having fun in the store, we must have spent 2 hours in there |
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| Only took 1 1/2 hours to paint this |
Thanksgiving was spent at Jim and Melania’s with Ida and
Melania’s brother Tery. We had way to much food:
On December 6 Deb visited and met her in Colon for lunch.
Jim and Melania and Carol joined us and as a surprise I invited Noshima, Deb
hasn’t seen in a long time. After that we drove to Ida’s house and spent a fun
evening catching up.
Ida took us shopping the following day in Panama City. Same evening Patsy and Roman arrived so we
had a wonderful Chinese Dinner across the street from our hotel. Sid left the
following day to finish some projects on the boat while Debi and I went
shopping for her provisions. She hadn’t seen a store since last March when her
and I hit Panama City from the San Blas. She didn’t quite buy as much as last time.
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| Eveybody got a "Debi Haircut" |
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| Steep drive way to Ida's house, Jim's car didn't make it to top before sliding backwards into the ditch |
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| Everybody waiting in Ida's car for the tow truck as it was raining |
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| Dinner was our favorite appetizer platter for 2 at Machu Pichu Restaurant |
After Tito picked her up at 6:30 am I drove to 4 Alto
picked up Sid and we did another day of shopping in town. Mind you it was the
day before the Panamanian Mother’s Day plus Christmas shopping the chaos on the
street was incredible, one traffic jam after another but we made it home with
all we needed and in one piece. Since it was mother’s day, a national holiday
on the 8th we got the car for that day at no cost, we were told that
they were closed, it would be a free day if we liked. Wow!!! Do we like, you
bet we like!!!
Time flies by and before you know it 3 months have passed
since we moved into the marina and Christmas is just around the corner.
Tomorrow Tuesday 12th we are finally hauling out to replace the
cutlass bearing and to add another through hull plus painting one coat of
antifouling paint and hope to be back in the water before Christmas.
And with that we wish you all a Merry Christmas, Happy
Hanukah and the best of everything for 2018. Mygosh how time flies 2018.
Besos grandes from Beautiful Panama
A few marina photos:
A few marina photos:
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| The new Panama Canal Bridge to Shelter Bay is coming along |
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| I organized a Sunday Bloody Mary morning |
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| an incredible Sunset Ski |
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| Howler Monkeys by the Marina |
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| Nature Walk in Shelter Bay area |
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| To this beautiful beach just 20 away from the marina |
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| Approaching rain cloud |
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| 6 am in the morning |
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| Water drops on my orchids |
Fun chill and beautification day with Carol and Judi
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| with Carol's Delicious BM's |
The lounge:
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| How would yo like to sit in this with a spring up your .....? |
The lounge Toilette:
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