AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR
Hier is finally the story on our trip to Canaima and Gran Sabana, one unforgettable adventure, hope you enjoy reading it as much as we were living it. Warning it's a looooooooooong story, so if you get tired or just want to skip it, here is a link to the albums and films. Have fun.http://albumscanaima.blogspot.com/
CANAIMA NATIONAL PARK AND GRAN SABANA
A normally 3 ½ hour bus ride to Ciudad Bolivar turned into an uncomfortable 6 ½ hour sauna trip as the AC of the bus didn’t work, usually the buses are more like freezers, not this one. We arrived late afternoon in
We met Tony later at the hotel and went out to a wonderful Steakhouse for dinner. The funny thing about meeting him at the hotel was that Ed and Linda who just returned from Merida (which is on the other side of Venezuela bordering Colombia) told us that they met a fun tour guide in Merida named Tony and here was the same Tony standing in front of us; small world.
After a great dinner and good night sleep we headed across the street to the airport at
Tony decided that it was best that we headed straight up the river to
There was a part with really ugly rapid which a few years back one boat capsized and since then these rapids are off limits for tourists and instead we get to hike 20 minutes along a nice path, while the boat awaits us above the rapids. From there the ride turned into a real adventure as there was one rapid after another, all you could hear was screaming and laughing. The view was spectacular every time we turned a corner of the snakelike river we had a view of another Tepui, some with waterfalls some with many of them and some with none. At one corner an orange bird came flying out of a tree it was a Rupicola Rupicola or Orange Cock of the Rock, you may recognize this bird as its head has a round crest of erectile feathers, shaped like a helmet. We also saw a beautiful bird with an iridescent cobalt blue color with yellow belly, Tony said it was a Drogon, but I haven’t been able to find it in my bird book or on the internet.
The higher we climbed the narrower the river became and more and more visible rocks appeared on the surface of the river. The boat sometimes came with in inches off these rocks but amazingly never hit one. The captain did a great job maneuvering us up the river and definitely knows his way. Then finally the
After the rain subsided and our cocoons were in place one of the indigenes ( that’s what they call the local Indians) started dinner by piercing one half chicken after another on long sticks and stuck them around a camp fire and roasted them crispy. While the chicken was roasting we discovered all kind of things around the camp. A cute looking lizard just as excited to watch us as we watched him, wild blooming orchids in the trees, a black scorpion munching on a centipede, big spiders and beautiful Morpho butterflies.
A Russian group joined our camp; they told us that they did some kite flying in Isla Coche. Knowing that Butch on Tropic Bird was kite flying in Coche we wondered what the chances were of them having met, well they did, small world again. We had a wonderful dinner, laughs, songs in all kind of languages, jokes, stories, for some a lot of rum and a good night sleep in our hammocks while rain drummed on the tin roof all night long.
The smell of frying arepas (corn pancakes) in hot oil awoke us and we enjoyed a wonderful breakfast before heading across the river to our walk up to
The last 20 minutes was fairly tough as we had to climb some rocks but then came the view of the incredible water fall which spilled over the Tepui cliff way above us. The height of the falls is so great that before getting anywhere near the ground the water is buffeted by the strong winds it creates and turned into mist and the mist was carried to where we were.
Angel Falls spills off one of the largest tepuis 700 sqm, the heart-shaped Auyantepui (in Pemoñ language ‘Mountain of the God of Evil’), and drops into the Cañon del Diablo (‘Devil’s Canyon’). The waterfall has become
We sat up on a rock awing over this spectacular waterfall, the mist spraying our faces. We were in a most beautiful scenery enhanced by all the blooming orchids, bromeliads and other tropical wild flowers everywhere we looked, plants we pay a fortune for in stores.
After we returned to the camp we gathered all our stuff and took the fast ride back to Canaima. The river current took us swiftly down the Churun river, again inches by boulders and rocks and down Rapidos Mayupa and Rapidos Arautaima and then into the Carrao river. It felt like on a ride in an amusement park. We were let off just a few feet before the river spilled over the Salto Hacha fall and hiked 20 minutes down the hill to our next camp on Isla Anatoly at Bernal’s Camp, our home for two nights. Bernal Camp was a bit more civilized than the Ratoncito camp, with 44 hammocks under one giant roof, tables and benches, bathrooms with cold river water showers, huge garden to explore and the most magnificent view over the Canaima Waterfalls. We were right across from Salto Hacha to the right of it is Golondrina, then Ucuaima. After we had settled in Sid and I ventured down to the lagoon across the falls. The couple from
After another wonderful dinner the guys went to the lagoon beach and started a bonfire while Carmen gave us girls a face massage, ahhhhh life is good. We arrived, the bonfire was raging and the guys half blasted. Tony said that now after the massage I now needed some of the healthy tannic water foam that washes ashore from the falls (the indigenes swear by its rejuvenating powers) and tossed foam in my face over and over, I felt like I was cream pied over and over. Evidence was found all over my shirt the next day which was stained with a brown mess and I always thought sea foam was white, but I have to admit my skin felt silky and soft. Even Sid had a rejuvenating foam pie tossed into his face. As we were singing songs around the fire some wild foxes joined us, I hope they didn’t think we were howling at them.
The shrieking sound of caracara falcons woke me up I grabbed my camera and followed the sound. There must have been at least 10 of these beautiful falcons playing on the ground. I also saw a chiquire (capybara) but they are so shy he disappeared into the bushes when he saw me.
Very near to Cainaima Lagoon from a branch of the Carrao river, you will find one of the most beautiful waterfalls in all the region: Salto Sapo (Frog Fall). The amount of water is really impressive, especially in the rainy season (May to November). We hiked about 20 minutes to this incredible fall and the hike didn’t end here as Tony led us below the fall. Yes below! I cannot describe the feeling you get walking behind the curtain of water, getting soaked to the bones and at one point where the most water spilled over the top, the mist was so thick we could barley breath or see. If you have claustrophobia this will definitely bring it out. We were just absolutely taken by this powerful scene of nature, we all were speechless. On the other side we rested and awed some more over this wonder of nature. Sid and I even found a pool the size of a Jacuzzi to cool off in. From here we walked to the neighboring Salto Sapito which is another beautiful waterfall and watched the massive amount of water spill over the edge into the lagoon below us and to the grassy meadow on the other side with Tepuis in the background, just breathtaking. On our hike we also saw the most colorful butterflies, a lilac dragon fly, two giant ants fighting, and a green poison dart frog and found some rocks of Jade. Above one of the pools we sat in the water just a few meters before the water spilled over the cliff.
After a relaxing bath in the shallows of the lagoon at our camp we all ventured into
The red wine-colored lagoon is bordered by a pink beach, and the falls, too, have conspicuously colored water, vaguely reminiscent of beer or brandy. The coloring of these (as well as other rivers and falls in the region) is caused by tannin, a compound found in local trees and plants, especially in the Bonnetia tree. The lagoon looks wonderful calm, but the waterfalls cause treacherous undercurrents.
We had just enough time to make it to the souvenir store as a heavy downpour of rain cooled off the hot air. We enjoyed walking through this quite beautiful village and walked along the beach back to where the boat had dropped us off. We were one hour too early so we decided to have a cocktail at the beach bar. I was shocked as we received the bill, it was 25 000 Bolivares for one Cuba Libre, they usually are max 5000; just good we only had one each. As sunset approached the waterfalls lit up in the reflection of the sun and a beautiful rainbow showed up by the last fall and disappeared as the sun disappeared below the horizon. We also met some of Tony’s old friends and learned that the Indigenes are not allowed to marry out of the race or they face a two year jail sentence, which happened to one of his friends. After his two years he did marry his sweetheart after all and is probably the only guy living here that is out of this tribe.
We had an early start, packed up our gear, loaded it into the boat, and drove back to Canaima and the airport. Just minutes later we took off in a Cessna and flew for 45 minutes over the
At one of clock we took off again in another small Cessna, this time to Santa Elena. The pilot insisted on me being his co-pilot and as we flew over Auyantepui he pointed at a narrow stream explaining that this was the Angel Falls river, to which I responded how puny it looked for such a powerful water fall, he mumble something, turned the rudder and started flying along the narrow stream of water. I cannot describe the view we had as we flew just a few feet, over the edge as the top of
We arrived safe and sound in Santa Elena where another yet unforgettable adventure awaited us.
Santa Elena de Uairén is the only town in the region of the Gran Sabana and only five miles from the Brazilian border. It is a very laid back town and we felt right at home, what we liked most was the climate, dry and pleasant cool at night. Founded in 1924, Santa Elena began to grow when diamonds were discovered in the 1930s in the Icabarú region. Then the village was isolated from the rest of the country due to lack of roads and remained small and insignificant. The second development push came with the opening of the highway from
The next morning Basil our tour guide from Kuravainatours picked us up and drove us first to
Vast, wild, beautiful, empty and silent, the Gran Sabana is one of the country’s most enchanting and unusual region and way worth a visit. It’s located on a plateau 1000 meters above sea level. Gran Sabana is an amazing rolling, grassy savanna with uncountable waterfalls and more than 100 table mountains (Tepui) which are the most striking natural features. Tepui is a Pemoñ Indian word for mountain and it has been adopted internationally as the term, although the term Tepui is used only in the Pemoñ language, elsewhere they are called either cerros or montes. These massive Tepuis are flat-topped, cliff-edge sandstone mountains and geologically are the remnants of a thick layer of Precambrian sediment laid down some two billion years ago when
First site was Pacheco’s creek a waterfall hard to find along a bumpy dirt road with a crystal clear pool. It was fun jumping from the rocks in to the refreshing water and we enjoyed sitting under the waterfall where the falling water massaged our backs.
Second stop was Yuruani falls where a rainbow was visible just beyond the fall, just breathtaking.
The trip was ended with a dirt road drive to Mirador Agua Fria where we had a 360 degree view over the Gran Sabana an incredible sight and rather dramatic as the sun set and shadows started creping across the savanna. Here we met a group from
Then it was back to Santa Elena and up the hill to a most beautiful Posada called Campamento Petoi, we had the cutest room and HOT running water what a joy and the fun people we just met stayed there as well. Dinner was wonderful as the owner is a gourmet chef. After dinner we sat outside with the our new
As we stepped onto the patio in the early hours a most beautiful view awaited us and we noticed the cutest stuffed puppy in the corner until it started moving. Parrots were talking loudly in a near by cage, then breakfast was served and we were off to our second day adventure in the Gran Sabana.
First visit was Quebrada de Jaspe (Jasper Creek or in Pemoñ Kako Paru), a natural wonder, where at the same time a waterfall and a stream 30 feet wide was flowing on a bed of Jasper, a red and yellow semi-precious stone. In the glistening sunlight the jasper was the color of shiny copper, brass and gold and at some spots it resembled a beautiful leopard skin a very breathtaking and unusual sight. We climbed the waterfall to get a different view of the unusual but beautiful shimmering colors. A bit further down the fall a pretty stepped cascade, also of jasper completed the enchanting scene. The color of the jasper must attract butterflies as there were numerous different types, we saw at least 8 morphos which are rather hard to encounter and harder to photo, several Swallowtails and in one corner lots of smaller yellow and white ones.
Some other beautiful falls were Soruape, Arapon Meru or Quebrada de pacheco, Karuai Meru, Kaki Falls where I found some Jasper pieces and we stopped at Mirador de Valle de los tepuis with another incredible view over the Sabana of several Tepuis including Roraima, the view was spectacular. Further down the road Basil turned off onto a washboard road and drove us some 85 miles along the bumpy road to Posada Chivaton out in the middle of nowhere. What a neat place and cozy rooms but “screech” was the shower water freezing cold. We had plenty of time before dinner so we sat down in front of the TV (sat dish)by the restaurant and made ourselves comfortable in the wooden chairs. As night was falling and there were no windows in the restaurant it didn’t take much time for bugs to fly around the light above us then they started bumping into us and landing on us, some got entangled in my hair, not for me, a scream later I had red wine all over my pants and socks not to mention a half empty wine glass. Dinner was again wonderful except for the steak which was as tuff as shoe soles. We had a good night sleep except for Ed and Linda finding a black scorpion in their bathroom. The squawking of a parrot woke me up; of course I grabbed my camera and went to find the noisy little critter. Didn’t take me long to find him in the near tree and less time to get him on my hand, I made a new friend.
The next trip took us another 28 kilometers on the bumpy dirt road to the Aponwao river where a dugout awaited us and twenty minutes later we arrived at the top of the second highest fall in Venezuela the Salto Aponwao (Chinak Meru) 105 meters a quite impressive waterfall. From there it was a short walk to the edge of the fall while we noticed two wire cable spun across the river which was placed there for safety as a few year back a boat’s engine failed and 16 adults and kids were killed as they fell over the fall. We walked a steep hill down to the base of the fall where a cool breeze from the fall engulfed us with the mist. From there it was an hour walk to Poso Escondido (hidden pool) surrounded in a narrow rocky valley covered with moss cliffs and yet another waterfall splashing into an inviting pool. The water was icy cold, but felt very refreshing after the hike. A ten minute hike up the hill took us to yet another fall with crystal clear and clean water. Amazingly being the same river the water up here was quite a bit warmer. Sid and our guide Oswaldo climbed up the waterfall and ventured up the river where they found three more falls. They returned pretty excited over this as this was the first time that anybody ventured higher up. The hike back was on a different track through trees, then the boat ride back to the village where Basil stayed behind and cooked lunch for us. I heard that they eat giant ants here and I really would have like to try some, couldn’t find any, but they make a hot sauce in this region where they use ants or termites in the sauce. We tried the first sauce in Santa Elena but did not like it all too much, but then trying it over and over again in different places we found out that each family has their own recipe and some were quite good and indeed I did find a head of an ant in one of the sauces. From here we drove 50 km on the dirt road to the biggest of the Pemoñ villages Kavanayén, which is nestled on top of a small plateau, a small Indian village in a spectacular location in the middle of the Gran Sabana. The village is about 70 km west of the highway, and accessible by dirt road only. It’s surrounded by tepuis and has views of at least half a dozen of these table mountains including the unique cone-shaped Wei Tepui (Mountain of the Sun). Kavanayén developed around the Capuchin mission established here half a century ago. The missionaries erected a massive stone building for themselves and apparently assumed that the Indians wanted to live in a similar dwelling. Almost all the houses in the village are of heavy stone construction, a striking contrast to the thatched adobe churuatas you’ll see elsewhere in the region. Here is also the only other presidential palace other than in
We spent another night at the Chivaton posada and had a really early start as we had over 500 kilometers to drive back to Ciudad Bolivar, which took us by the virgin Statue “Piedra de la Virgen” which is a rock formation that looks like a statue with open arms, from there down the “Escalera” (staircase) from here starts a rainforest that ends at KM 88 (I guess they couldn’t find a name and since it was 88 km from Ciudad Guyana they named it just that) a small village which had lots to do with gold dealing and is still to this day a rather dangerous area. We had to stop for fuel and police told Basil that it was not a safe day to hang around. We also drove over a bridge that Eiffel built and later was given to
Next village we drove through is Tumoreno where the famous soft cheese for Chapatas (Corn pancakes, quite tasty) is made. Since we didn’t have a cooler we decided it was best not to buy any but we stopped in El Callao an old town on the Rio Yuruari, what is
With real car butts we finally arrived in Ciudad Bolivar an old Spanish port on the Orinoco River, the largest river in Venezuela, about 420 km upstream from the Atlantic, Ciudad Bolivar is one of Venezuela’s most popular destinations, for the city itself and mainly to access the natural attractions of Angel Falls. During modern times the town has expanded greatly, but still kept its historic core which retains the flavor of an old river town with its colonial era architecture. The historic quarter is perched on a hillside overlooking the mighty
The bus trip home was a lot better as the bus was air-conditioned, faster and we even were able to watch a movie.
This was indeed an incredible and unforgettable adventure definitely the best trip we’ve ever taken and we want to do it again.
And hier again the link to all the films and photo albums of the falls, flight, snake, Sabana, enjoy
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