We rented a car 3 days before Lia and Jesse arrived to
provision for our 2 week trip to the San Blas. First I thought I over provisioned as I had to
store a lot of stuff under the table. But at the end of the trip little was
left under the table.
It was an exciting moment for the girls and me to finally
meet face to face at the airport. Seeing Lia was like seeing her mother when I
first met her I was 26 years old. They arrived early enough to still have
daylight to enjoy the scenic drive to Portobelo. They could hardly wait to get
on the boat and both had no problem adjusting to their home for the next 18
days.
You haven’t seen Panama if you haven’t seen the Canal.
The following day they took in the first two impressions of Panama: the Canal
which for me is still after so many times seeing it fascinating. The girls were
just as impressed.
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| Jesse and Lia |
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| and of course a selfi by Lia |
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| the future canal under construction |
The second impression the ugly town of Colon which looks like
a war zone; I found out that any movie having to do with Haiti is filmed here as
it looks pretty similar but is less dangerous.
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| And these photos are from the prettier part of town |
On their third day we headed to the San Blas, big choppy
waves awaited us outside the bay which unfortunately was not the ideal trip for
landlubbers. Even with green faces there was a smile of excitement to go to the
San Blas. In Chichime they could barely wait to hit the water, I don’t blame them,
it is crystal clear and too inviting. I joined them as well but kept a close
eye on the dark cloud that was approaching from the North and getting more
ominous by the minute and I did spot a good size waterspout. That was quite
exciting and we watched it passed the island. Where is the camera when you need
it!
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| Jesse and Lia with Trash island in background |
Sid and I were shocked to see the transformation of
Chichime, it was filled with backpacker boats and the two islands covered with
tents and backpackers.
(Backpackers are mostly young adult students that are
traveling. In this area they are going from Panama to Columbia or the other way
and there are no roads so the only way
to do that trip is by boat or air, boat is cheaper because they stop in the San
Blas for a few days).
The family we knew
with the cute old lady “Sipu” weren’t there either, which saddened us, we were
hoping to see them again.
The little Island we had named Gaby Dup, when my
cousin Gaby was here is now “Trash Island” as all the backpacker’s burn their
trash on this once beautiful sandy island. Would not be so bad if it was
burnable stuff but cans and bottles are left behind as well, a real shame. I
really think they should regulate the Backpacker Boats. They are ruining the
islands and are not showing any respect to the Kuna’s either. In Coco Bandera
one Backpacker boat’s guests went on one of the island and found a Kuna hut
they thought was left behind and used it for fire wood. Can you imagine the poor
Kuna coming back to his island finding himself homeless?!!! This island now is
off limits to even the cruisers.
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| Treasures on the beach |
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| Kuna water hole |
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| typical Kuna hut |
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| We enjoyed watching these two Kuna fishermen |
The following morning we had to sail to Porvenir to check
in with the Port Captain, which we were told is a must. It was a quick check in
and I was actually glad to finally see Porvenir as we never had checked in
here. Porvenir does not look like a typical Kuna island and mainly consist of
one runway and a couple of houses, a pretty and clean island, except the
anchorage is not very suitable, just good enough for a quick stop to check in. The three adjacent Islands looked different
than what we’ve seen, they are covered with nothing but Kuna huts. After
checking in the port captain sent us to the neighboring island to pay a fee to
the Commarca which is the Kuna government building but told us that nobody was
there today. It’s a 20 dollar boat fee and 5 dollar for each person per month.
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| Porvenir |
From here we sailed to Banadup in the East Lemons. I was
hoping the cute little boy that was jumping up and down on the beach calling my
name last time (almost 3 years ago), was there again because I had a present
for him this time. No kids were seen on the beach, my heart sank.
The first ulu that approached I asked the lady if she
knew the Robinson family with the kid then about 6 or 7 years of age, pointing
at the hut they lived in. She looked at me and said “Manuela” and “he is 10
now!” Wow it was the mother of the little boy and remembered us.
She was just
as excited to see us as we were to see her. We bought a few things from her and
I ordered custom made bead anklets and wrist band. The next morning we visited
her island and she put my new jewelry on.
We chat for a while and she gave me a
coconut and invited us to walk her island, which we did.
Snorkeling was added to the day, some card games after
dinner and then the girls fell asleep in the hammocks on deck.
There is an island close by (2 miles) “Dog Island” with a
wreck we always wanted to snorkel. We were almost there when the dinghy engine
quit. We were a long ways away from the boat and had to row back wit h two
people paddling with an oar. It was quit tiring as a current tried to push us down
from where we needed to go. We were about half way and over a reef the girls
jumped in the water, they were going to tow the dinghy. They were in the water
about 15 seconds when they scrambled back into the dinghy. They encountered
thousands of jelly fish. So I went in and oh wow, the underwater scenery was
spectacular with one of the most beautiful reefs I have ever encountered and
the jelly fish added to the beauty of the reef. By the way the jelly were
harmless, so all jumped back in the water and snorkel- towed (is that a word?) the
dinghy back to the boat. I am planning to spend a lot of time exploring this
reef when we return.
Later on that day we went back to the Kuna lady, I wanted
to thank her and to let her know that we would be back. I also brought the
present for her son, a world cup soccer ball. Just before we left she called me
inside her hut, which is unusual. Inside, she and a family member tried to pull
a mola shirt over my head. I told her my boobs were too big for it but they
tried anyway and pulled down and down, my boobs getting flatter and flatter and
finally the shirt was stuck no way going any further. Both girls were giggling
like crazy saying: “Si grande mammas” (yes huge tits). Chatting in Kuna they
pointed at this and that and pulled it off me and she then looked at me and
said, next time you come back you will have your own Mola shirt. Wow, that blew
me away, I feel very honored, that is very unusual they don’t give molas away
especially not a full Mola shirt. I am still humbled by it. I can’t wait to
come back and bring more presents. I promised her that I will bring the black
digital boys watch for her son he wishes to have. He lives on the Robinson
Island and is going to school now.
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| Having too much fun |
We thought for sure that sailing from here to the
Swimming Pool the girls would not get sick as most is in protected waters
behind the Holandes Cays, but……
I think the Holandes was the highlight for them with sea
creatures. We explored the Bath Tub first, a reef full of fish. Sid had created
a tow toy with a line going through an about 4 foot of PVC pipe. With
snorkeling gear on the girls were towed back towards the boat, that was too
kewl. Well once more the dinghy crapped out and the girls towed Sid the rest of
the way back to the boat. Out of gas!!!
When we snorkeled on the outer reef right away Lia discovered
a big lobster in a crevasse. I had fun with him trying to get him out of his
hiding hole. Jesse and Lia also discovered a nurse shark resting under a big
coral, beautiful. A giant ray watched us with caution as we studied him. The
fun part at the outer reef is there is always a current running so no need to
drive the dinghy back just let the current carry you back to the boat while
snorkeling with dinghy in tow. We saw so much more in the water including a few
conchs.
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| Anchored in this |
The girls had so much and also enjoyed the culinary side
as Kuna fisherman provided us with lobster and conch. I think we conched out!
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| Conch |
The time was shortened by having to go back to Porvenir
to check out again. We were just alongside Chichime to turn into the channel
towards Porvenir when a boat crossed us. It was “Mischief” with Chris, Jordi
and Gina on board. We met Chris and Jordi 6 years ago in Venezuela when they
called it quits with cruising and their relationship. About 4 years later we
receive an email with the announcement of their daughter Gina’s birth with the cutest
photo of happy mom and baby. About 6 months ago another email that they had
arrived in the San Blas on their new boat, them not knowing we were in the same
area. I wrote her back and we made plans to meet up in San Blas and here our
path crossed. After a short VHF call Mischief mad a U turn and headed to
Chichime instead of Banadup to wait for us.
This time we anchored in front of one of the inhabited
islands at Porviner and let the girls roam around while we proceeded to checked
out.
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| they even found ice cold beer |
I tried to find the Commarca again to pay the fee but we were sent to the
next island; no luck either so we headed to the port captain telling him our
dilemma not having been able to pay the fee. He checked us out and sent me
around the building to an office there, which turned out to be the official
office of the Commarca where you pay the fee. Now why could he not tell us that
when we checked in instead of sending us over to the other island?! Not just
that a second door opens back into the port captain’s office, so no need to
walk around.
After we collected the girls, we sailed back to rendezvous
with Christina, Jordi and Gina in Chichime. Right after we had settled in an
ulu approached to sell more molas. As I stood up and looked at the approaching
ulu the old lady’s eyes lit up and she kept pointing at me and kept pointing at
me, she couldn’t get to our boat fast enough, she even remembered my name. My
gosh it was Sipu and her son Carlitos, she was so excited to see us and wanted
us to come to her island right at that moment to meet her new granddaughter,
daughter of Carlitos now 1 ½ years old. We promised to stop on her island in a
couple of months to see her granddaughter, bought some Molas from her and then
got ready for our dinner with Mischief.
What a Doll little Gina is, I had her favorite meal
Spaghetti. It was a fun night catching up and we will do more of that when we
return to the San Blas.
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| Christina and Jordi |
The girls were ready for the trip back to the mainland: lying
down and sleeping the whole way! This
time they did not get sick but were a lighter shade of green.
I don't think we suffered food wise in and on Paradise
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| Salmon with Passion fruits sauce |
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| Tuna and Mero carpacchio |
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| Chateau Briand |
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| Conch Salad |
Their vacation wasn’t over yet. The girls still needed to
buy some more souvenirs and wanted to do a shopping spree at the gigantic
Albrook Mall, so I organized the dorm room at the Cruiser’s Casa Penthouse in
down town. Debi and Nell joined us and
spent the night in the dorm and Ida joined us for a couple of hours at
Casa Blanca, my favorite restaurant.
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| Beautiful Gamboa Resort |
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| Lia, Nell, Jesse, Manuela and Debi |
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| Sign in front of Gamboa Church |
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| At Penthouse |
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| View from Penthouse |
We thoroughly enjoyed showing the girls a little of our
life and in return I asked Lia and Jesse if they would write up a little story
of their experience:
OUR TRIP IN AND ON, PARADISE:
Hello all! We are Jessica & Lia! Manuela asked us to write a
blog about the 18 day trip we took with her and Sid.
Lia's parents, Joyce & Larry, are dear old friends of Sid
& Manuela. When Lia and Jess got the travel-bug, it was suggested that
we contact them and just like that, we had begun planning our get away.
Although Manuela did an incredible job describing what living on a
36 foot sail boat would be like, and giving us an outline of the trip, we
really had no idea what we were in for; beautiful weather, gorgeous islands,
animals from sloths and spider monkeys to turtles and barracuda, gourmet meals,
incredible snorkeling, and ultimately gaining 2 new life-long friends.
Manuela picked us up from the airport with snazzy sunglasses and
wine glasses in hand! She even had sangria on ice for us - we instantly knew we
would get along just fine! We made the pretty drive into Portebello and saw the
boat for the first time! We were both so excited and anxious at the same
time. Panama could not wait to show off it's rain and thunderstorms and
gave us a beautiful show our very first night, and most of the nights to
follow.
We took the rental car back into Colon to see the Panama Canal and
cruise the city. The Canal was an incredible sight! We then had our first
(not to be our last) experience on a "Chicken Bus" aka the deadly
form of public transportation in which bus drivers pretend they are race car
drivers.
Day 3 began our trip out to the San Blas islands. Turns out Lia
and I don't have sea-legs, and get more than a tad nauseous when the boat
is moving, so we slept the majority of the way. We spent 2 nights in Chichime,
3 days in Banadup and 4 days in Swimming Pool. Each anchorage was more
beautiful than the next, with surprising adventures and more molas than we
could afford. Without going into every gorgeous detail about each place, we'll
give you the highlights:
Chichime - Our introduction to the San Blas, a beautiful group of
three islands surrounded by reef, crystal clear water, and a wrecked ship on
the horizon. Venacio, a Kuna Yala, almost sold Lia his entire collection of
molas. We were FINALLY able to narrow it down (after we ran out of money) and
purchase the most beautiful molas we saw in all of Panama. Venacio is very
talented and very kind. We enjoyed talking with him about his work and were
ecstatic to bring some home with us.
Banadupe - On our way to snorkel the small ship wreck on the
nearby Dog Island, the Dingy overheated and would not start. We ended up having
to paddle a short way out of the current, then took turns towing it while
snorkeling back to the boat - which was about 1 mile away. What a blessing in
disguise; the reefs were beautiful and the snorkeling was fantastic. This was
our favorite of the three places we visited in the islands, in part because of
a Kuna family Manuela has a friendship with. We also saw the most magnificent
of sunsets, which the four of us enjoyed together with cocktails on the bow of
the Paradise.
Swimming Pool - What a beautiful place. We saw the most sea life
here; Stingrays, Spotted Eagle Rays, Flounders, Turtles, Nurse Sharks,
Barracudas, Cobia, and so much more. Sid taught us how to use the
"hookah" (scuba diving respirator hooked up to the boat), which
allowed Lia and I to go "Under the Sea" and sit on the bottom (~15ft
deep). How incredible it is to see the ocean from this perspective. This is
also where we perfected the art of "Shit Head", a card game Sid
taught us.
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| Jesse |
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| Underwater selfi |
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| Lia's turn |
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| They had soooo much fun |
Each night we would put Sid's fisherman's light into the water to
see what creatures would be curious enough to check it out. This was one of our
favorite things to do. We would watch for hours as different fish came and
went, we even got to see a cuttlefish feeding!
After the San Blas we headed to Porto Lindo, where we got to meet
Manuela and Sid's animal and cruiser friends! We got to meet Dooger the 3 toed
sloth and hold him. He was much softer than we both thought he would be! We had
dinner with Debbie and Reg, an awesome couple from New York. We cruised the
mangroves, snorkeled, fed spider monkeys and ate more great food!
We headed back to Portobello with a day to explore there before
heading back to Panama City. Sid took us on an amazing hike to the look out
towers of the old forts around town. The view was incredible and Sid's
knowledge made him an excellent tour guide :)
Our last night, although bittersweet, was a blast. Along with
Manuela, Debbie and Nell, we stayed in Panama City for a night of incredible
food and Cuban salsa dancing! Although we missed Sid dearly, a girls night out
was a great way to see us off.
All in all, we had the experience of a lifetime. Sid and Manulea
have given us something we could never duplicate. We already miss them and the
beautiful shores of Panama. Until our next adventure....
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| Thanks Girls we had a wonderful time |
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She was just
as excited to see us as we were to see her. We bought a few things from her and
I ordered custom made bead anklets and wrist band. The next morning we visited
her island and she put my new jewelry on. 
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